I enjoy winter travel south because then I don’t have to suffer under the scorching sun, and the local attractions aren’t obscured by hordes of tourists craving the beach and a cold beer. We spent New Year’s Eve this year in Krakow’s market square, but we were only passing through – on our way to Sicily . On New Year’s Day, we boarded a Ryanair flight and headed towards the 38th parallel. As always, food is one of the most important things for me when traveling, I’ll try to answer these crucial questions: where and what to eat in Sicily ? Specifically, in Palermo , where we spent most of our time. Make yourself a good coffee and, for a few minutes, be transported to the land of oranges, almonds, pistachios, and eggplants.
Eating in Palermo late at night
After landing and unpacking, it was already 9:37 PM, and we were very hungry. As always, we stayed in the city center, so we could walk to the most important sights. We had initially booked a different place to stay, but—I admit—the surrounding area on Google Street View scared me a bit. After changing our reservations, we ended up on Via Cavour, a 25-minute walk from the train station and within easy reach of most of the sights. This was exactly what we were looking for!
Speaking of searching, we set off on Christmas Eve, hoping to find something open. We bounced around the first few places—despite what turned out to be misleading information on Google Maps—until we finally found an alleyway full of African and Middle Eastern immigrants, where we finally managed to find something to eat.
Of course, we hadn’t come to Palermo to eat kebabs, so we were delighted when a guy named Jaser, fluent in Italian, offered us pizza at Diverso . Let’s be honest, it wasn’t the best pizza I’ve ever eaten, but it definitely wasn’t the worst either. Our choices included a cherry tomato and mozzarella pizza, as well as an eggplant option. It was enough to satisfy our initial hunger.
Before heading off for a well-deserved rest, we stopped by Pasha next door for a shisha. The average age of the people at the tables next to us was just under eighteen. So this is how the younger generation of new Sicilians spends their New Year’s Eve…
The service at both establishments was exceptionally friendly, and the food and shisha were good. My only reservation is the area, which is swarming with street vendors and hawkers – something I truly detest. But oh well – that’s the atmosphere.
Modern Sicilian cuisine
January 2nd, Monday – a new week, and therefore new culinary challenges. We came to Buatta on the recommendation of one of the numerous guidebooks as a place to enjoy modern twists on Sicilian classics. We managed to snag a table in the garden without a reservation, although the Italians were a bit skeptical about our spring attire, while for the locals, temperatures around 10 degrees Celsius were a reason to wear a winter jacket.
For an amuse bouche, we got something like a sheet pan pizza with tomato sauce and anchovies. Unfortunately, there was no vegetarian version, so I ate both. To wash it down, we had a Sicilian classic: Marsala . Marsala is a sweet, fortified wine produced on the western coast of Sicily, with an alcohol content of around 18%. It’s the local answer to popular port or sherry. It’s usually served as an aperitif, and that’s exactly what it did at Buatta.
Of course, you can never have too much wine, so we ordered a local white wine to accompany the main course. My plate included another Sicilian classic – pasta chi sardi . This version was bucatini – thicker strands than spaghetti – with sardines and wild fennel. The whole thing was generously drizzled with delicious olive oil, creating a delicious introduction to our Palermo adventure. Unfortunately, the vegetarian version of the pasta was once again not on the menu. This problem will recur in many places. Upon request, we were served pasta with tomato sauce, not on the menu. Classic, but nothing fancy.
Sicilian sweets
It’s undeniable that Sicily is home to two distinct categories of products: fish and seafood, and sweets. While I have no problem with the former, as you know, sweet is my least favorite flavor . However, since I came here, I had to force myself to try.
What’s the sweet spot in Palermo? Among the island’s wide variety of sugary treats, the most popular are cannoli , granita , cassata , and paste di mandorla or pistacchio . This is hardly surprising, since Sicily is the only region in Italy where pistachios are grown. Along with almonds, pistachios are the base for many desserts and more.
Granite
I imagine everyone has encountered granita —or granita-like products—at the Polish seaside, and more recently, unfortunately, at beer festivals. It’s a semi-liquid dessert consisting of finely crushed ice, water, sugar, fruit juices or syrups, and other additives. Compared to sorbet, granita has a much coarser consistency.
I have to believe that if it’s made with real, natural juice and the creator doesn’t overdo it with sugar, it’s a pretty good, refreshing option for the summer heat. Unfortunately, someone in Messina once had the brilliant idea to make a monster called granita di caffè , in which the fruit was replaced with coffee. I came across such a thing in Palermo, and it was so disgusting that I couldn’t finish it. It’s not because I don’t like cold brew coffee, as nitro, ice drip, and ice aerocano are among my personal favorites. It’s just that the combination of sugar and over-roasted espresso, diluted with ice and water, was unbearable for me.
Fortunately, the second option served at the place where I had the dubious pleasure of drinking coffee granita—a massive pistachio monoportion (or rather, a pistachio bomb)—didn’t disappoint! So if you end up at Casa Stagnitta , skip the granita and get something else.
Cannoli
I beg you, if you’re no longer willing to learn a few simple Italian words on Duolingo and are ordering food in English, don’t say “cannolis .” It makes your ears droop as much as pierogi . The singular is “cannolo ,” so there’s no need for double pluralization.
Cannoli are protected by the Italian government as a PAT (Traditional Agricultural and Food Product) and can be found in most pastry shops throughout Sicily. They are baked, crispy pastry tubes filled with ricotta cheese and often garnished with pistachios. This is a dessert whose creation is credited to women. According to legend, they were first made by women in the harem of a Saracen emir, and later by Catholic nuns. It’s an interesting way of inheriting culinary traditions, I must say.
The most famous Sicilian sweets have also reached continental Europe and overseas, and owe their popularity, among other things, to the memorable quote from The Godfather : Leave the gun, take the cannoli .
You can also find cannoli filled with pistachio cream here and there, but it’s not a true version of tradition. One older Sicilian even told me there was no such thing as a cannoli with a green filling. It was only at a pastry shop run by Moroccan immigrants that I managed to taste this version of the popular dessert.
Cassata
This very popular Sicilian dessert has nothing in common with cassata ice cream, which was popular in Poland over twenty years ago. In the traditional Sicilian version, cassata is made from a fluffy sponge cake soaked in a delicious local liqueur, topped with ricotta, fruit, and marzipan.
Cassata likely dates back to the Middle Ages, when it was enjoyed by aristocrats. Since making a good cassata is not easy, few people make it at home, instead leaving this privilege to master pastry chefs.
Interestingly, Sicilians most often eat cassata during Easter, so you could say it’s a kind of local Easter mazurek.
Paste di mandorla / paste di pistacchio
As I wrote earlier, in Sicily you have to eat what the island is famous for – all kinds of almond and pistachio preserves. I admit that I baked paste di mandorla , small marzipan cookies, at home even before I visited their homeland. They were enjoyed not only by the author but apparently by our guests as well.
To make these almond delights (you can also use pistachios), prepare a paste-like dough that includes—in addition to the almonds—sugar, beaten egg whites, lemon zest, and flavoring. As a fan of natural flavors, I omitted this last ingredient in my version. After combining all the ingredients, form balls, roll them in powdered sugar, and place them on parchment paper. Then, refrigerate them uncovered overnight. This will allow the cookies to dry out slightly on top, creating their characteristic crust. The next day, bake the treats for 12 minutes at 180 degrees Celsius (350 degrees Fahrenheit), and voila—we have our paste di mandorla .
We tried the original in Agrigento, when after a good walk through the Valley of the Temples we had some time before the train back to Palermo.
North of Quattro Canti
Quattro Canti is one of those places in Palermo that appeals to my taste, but it’s best to visit it at sunrise—when there are no people around. Otherwise, the artistic experience will be overshadowed by the throngs of horse-drawn carriages, mimes, vendors, beggars, and tourists. This square, built in the 17th century, consists of four twin Baroque palace facades facing each other, each replete with exquisite ornamentation and detail. Each palace symbolizes a season, and its facade features a Sicilian king or patron saint.
It’s also the intersection of the city’s two main streets – Maqueda and Vittorio Emanuele. Walking west from here will take you to the Cathedral, east to the sea, north to the Teatro Massimo, and south to the train station. Of course, you can also find delicious food on Via Maqueda, although – as is often the case with main streets – it can be difficult to find a table.
Traditional Sicilian dishes
Walking towards the Teatro Massimo, we pass several local fast food joints serving another local specialty – potato croquettes called crocchè or crochette . Versions are available with a variety of fillings – both meat and vegetarian. These joints also serve delicious arancini , rice balls traditionally made with leftover risotto from the previous day. The rice is stuffed with whatever comes to hand, shaped into balls, breaded, and deep-fried. I especially recommend the version with the classic ragù .
Another must-eat is classic Sicilian pizza . It’s distinctive because it’s baked on a rectangular baking sheet, and the dough distinguishes it from Roman pizza al taglio. While Roman pizza is flat and thin, in Sicily the dough is filled with large air pockets, increasing its size while maintaining a light and crispy texture. There are also spongier versions, but I especially enjoyed the pizza served at Biga , also on Via Maqueda. Regarding the dough’s texture, I had glimpses of Amuni in Prague , though there was no mention of rye sourdough.
At Biga, besides the delicious crust, they also offer a wide range of toppings. You can choose from meat options like speck, prosciutto, or salami, vegetarian options like mushrooms, eggplant, or the incredibly popular Italian pizza with… potatoes, and you can even find sweet pizzas! I highly recommend it. My mouth is watering just remembering it.
Palermo is full of eggplants
What better place to eat in Palermo than the classic eggplant norma ? Bisso Bistrot was very crowded, but we finally managed to grab some paccheri alla norma – a classic Sicilian pasta dish with eggplant and tomato sauce. It’s usually served with a different kind of pasta, but they happened to have one on hand. The second delicacy that arrived at our table was white gnocchi with walnuts. Another classic – delicious as always. Eggplants definitely play a prominent role in Sicilian cuisine. So we can’t forget about the other two classic dishes from the fire-breathing Mount Etna.
Caponata delights with its sweet and sour flavor, which elevates the ordinary eggplant to a higher level. Sitting in the garden of l’Alcova dei Sapori , I devoured a delicious version, watching the locals hurrying by. Caponata owes its unique flavor to a mixture of capers, olives, and wine vinegar, which bathes the sugar-dusted vegetables. Besides eggplant, Sicilians also use onions, celery, bell peppers, and tomatoes. Some also add local nuts, almonds, and even raisins. There are countless recipes and variations of caponata . It can be eaten on its own, or with pasta, or—and this is the most authentic version—with Sicilian bread called sfincione .
The third, though definitely not the last, eggplant dish in the rich eggplant spectrum is parmigiana . It’s nothing more than a casserole made from layered slices of baked eggplant. What goes between the purple vegetable slices? Tomatoes ripened in the Italian sun, fresh basil, and cheese—lots of cheese. Sicilians love cheese, like most Mediterranean peoples. Parmesan cheese can be used for parmigiana (though the name of this dish has nothing to do with it, nor—surprisingly—with Parma at all!), but the best are local products straight from Sicilian artisans: caciocavallo and tuma persa . The latter is made by only one cheesemaker—Salvatore Passalaqua! Be sure to try it if you have the chance.
The area around the Cathedral
Cheese and wine
Near the Cathedral, walking west from Quattro Canti along Vittorio Emanuele Street, we pass not only two historic churches but also the No Mafia Memorial, a museum established to commemorate the anti-Mafia movement and the Mafia itself. Unfortunately, despite local residents’ objections, Mafia-related memorabilia, mostly branded with “The Godfather ,” lurks in souvenir stalls for unsuspecting tourists. Palermo citizens, who were the Camorra’s first victims, urge people not to purchase such memorabilia, yet pop culture and predatory capitalism continue to prevail.
Continuing towards the Cathedral, we pass Solo Patate , where we can eat anything made with potatoes – croquettes again, but also pancakes, fries, and anything else your heart desires. It’s perfect for quick street food. A place nearby is much more interesting. Called Vino e Cacio Salumeria , it’s a shop selling cold cuts, cheeses, and wine. Fortunately, it has a few tables, so you can sample a few things. We ordered a plate of artisanal cheeses and a glass of local wine, which made the chilly January evening incredibly pleasant.
La Galleria
I didn’t eat much fish or seafood, as we were aiming for places with any vegetarian options on the menu. Unfortunately, it was quite difficult to find one. Of course, I’m not talking about the Faroese standard, where vegetarianism is probably unheard of, but we often found ourselves turned away due to the lack of meatless options.
I decided on fish at the charming La Galleria , located just behind the Cathedral. I ordered a tuna steak with fresh vegetables and left satisfied. The tuna was cooked just right (on the outside only), but tender and juicy inside. The beef of the sea was a perfect five.
A gala dinner in a unique place
For some time now, we’ve been trying to visit a Michelin- starred restaurant on every trip. This was the case in Palermo , where we booked a table at the one-star restaurant MEC . This is important information, as previously we’d been to recommended, but not Michelin-starred restaurants. MEC was our first Michelin-starred experience. So what kind of food do they serve at such a restaurant in Palermo ?
Before we talk about the food, it’s worth taking a closer look at the place itself. Located opposite the Cathedral, you enter through a beautiful courtyard, and on your way to your table, you sneak through… the Apple Museum. The symbol of a bitten apple is ubiquitous here, as you can also see in the photos.
MEC – Michelin fine dining in Palermo
The menu is extensive and includes many à la carte options, as well as tasting menus. We opted for the vegetarian menu because it was recommended for the entire table. As it turned out, we were given two menus, so we could have easily ordered different ones. It’s a shame no one informed us of this, and the menu itself was misleading. However, this is only a minor inconvenience, as the remaining portions more than made up for the double meals. It’s important to remember, however, that the price listed on the menu is per person.
Before we received the actual set menu, the waiter brought three different appetizers. To start, we had something that looked like a green pea pod . The balls were made of pea mousse and then encased in a shortbread cracker. The creamy consistency continued in the second version of the amuse bouche. This time, a thin pastry shell served as a spoon for the cheese mousse . As if that weren’t enough cheese, we also had cheese muffins and a shortbread cheese stick shaped like a long, thin spiral. It was already delicious, and we hadn’t even started eating yet.
Tasting Menu
We finally arrived at the apple theme. The first proper course of the tasting was shaped like the Apple logo, made with deconstructed caponata and paprika mousse. Before we could finish our second course, we were presented with delicious sourdough bread and excellent artisanal olive oil from Enrico Bonanno, in which to dip our gluten-laden ambrosia. The old restaurant rule is not to stuff yourself with bread, but this one was exceptionally delicious and deserved a separate course.
After the bread, it was time for mango mousse , garnished with nasturtium leaves, served on a pumpkin cake with miso and black garlic . Anyone who has eaten black garlic and enjoys miso knows that this combination is a true umami fiesta, despite the lack of meat. The sweetness of the mango and pumpkin perfectly complemented this truly baroque flavor bomb.
As soon as we warmed our taste buds before the main event, a waiter appeared at the table with a white truffle in hand. Fresh truffles excite me so much that we even went to the cinema to see the film “Trufflers ,” about people who gather these mushrooms with their dogs. I don’t know if it’s their scarcity, their unique aroma and taste, or something else, but whenever I have the opportunity, I order dishes with fresh truffles. This time, these unique mushrooms garnished homemade pasta with egg yolk and broccoli mousse. Delicious.
The fourth item to eat was artichoke in various forms. The plate featured an artichoke flower garnished with chips made from the same vegetable, along with old friends from the previous suggestion: egg yolk and even more truffles ! Before dessert, we also received pear ice cream with cocoa nibs. It’s as if someone thought you couldn’t fill up at a fine dining dinner. You can, I assure you.
The feast was brought together by another apple motif. Instead of a deconstructed caponata , this time we received a cassata shaped like the logo of the favorite computer hardware manufacturer of millions of urban thirty-somethings. So what? Is dessert the end? No, no, no. Before leaving, the waiter served us three more miniature desserts: a pistachio-chocolate muffin, a white chocolate with a sour filling, and a microscopic cream puff.
Wow! It was an out-of-this-world feast, brimming with thoughtful, original combinations of unusual flavors, a rich, intense experience despite the absence of meat, and unique ingredients like white truffle. All of this was accompanied by a wine pairing: Bianca di Valguarnera – a Sicilian white wine aged for two years in oak barrels. A perfect match for the menu.
Alcohol
In Sicily, we drank mostly wine —primarily from local producers. Virtually every restaurant offers a good artisanal wine from the region, made from local grape varieties such as Nero d’Avola, Nerello Mascalese, Frappato, Perricone (red), Zibibbo (the local name for Muscat), Grillo, Carricante, Inzolia, Cataratto, and Fiano (white). Sicilians wouldn’t be themselves if they didn’t make almond wine —that is, with the addition of almond extract. We can’t forget the famous Marsala , which I mentioned at the beginning of this story, as well as Cerasuolo di Vittoria —the only Sicilian wine appellation with the highest DOGC category.
There’s no point in struggling with the poor beer they serve here. Sicilians love Ceres Strong Ale, a Danish brain-thumper, as well as classic Italian lagers like Birra Moretti and Peroni. You’d have to search for craft beer, and the only craft beer shop in the city center was closed. A pioneer of Sicilian craft beer is Bruno Ribadi , whose beers are produced on the island’s west coast. However, I didn’t have the opportunity to try them where I was.
In liquor stores, you’ll easily find local liqueurs made with Sicily’s pride: pistachios and almonds . Besides that, it’s worth sipping the classic Italian limoncello and trying the Breath of Etna . What is it? It’s a local equivalent of our “Wild Spirit ,” only in a commercial, touristy version. The bottle of this red spirit, infused with aromas and herbs, has 70% alcohol and is decorated with lava. A tourist gimmick, but I had to drink it. Without enthusiasm.
Moving on to liqueurs, Averna is undoubtedly a classic: a herbal and spicy digestif with the addition of bitter Sicilian lemon extract and pomegranate. If limoncello is too mainstream for you, try Mandarinetto , a liqueur made from the peels of local mandarins macerated in strong alcohol.
There are plenty of wild oranges growing on the streets of Palermo. I wouldn’t be myself if I didn’t pick one and taste it. As expected, the taste was mostly acidic and bitter, but I dug into the whole fruit picked near Garibaldi’s Garden. It turns out that these same fruits are used to produce Amaranaca liqueur, and various herbs and plants native to the slopes of Mount Etna are added. At least that’s what the producer’s nautical tale goes.
Epilogue
Beyond Palermo, we visited Agrigento , where we explored the Valley of the Temples . While waiting for the train, we ate some almond treats and bought souvenirs on the way back. We also made it to Cefalu , where we climbed La Rocca , which offers a stunning view of the sea and the local marina.
We spent a week in Sicily , sightseeing, eating, and drinking, and at the end, we even caught a violin concert at the Teatro Massimo . Don’t believe those who say Palermo isn’t worth flying to. It may not be Scandinavian-Germanic, but we felt safe there (except for the moments when we had to cross the street—the city is a pedestrian nightmare). If you’re here, don’t miss not only the local wines, fruits, eggplants, and sweets, but also the tastings at MEC—it’s worth devoting an evening to this incredible feast of the senses.
Not just a foodie, but also a self-taught chef who cooks and tests recipes from around the globe. A traveler and connoisseur of great dishes across countries and cultures. Certified beer sensory specialist. Owner of a contract craft brewery renowned for wild, experimental brews. A former homebrewer with deep know-how in brewing techniques and beer styles. Loves pushing flavor boundaries—both on the plate and in the glass. His motto: “Go big or go home.”