The new year arrived, and it was finally time to travel again. And that’s what I live for—to explore, experience, and then share my memories—and here, too. Four months have passed since my last trip to Oslo , and wanderlust has surged within me like the tsunami that flooded Lisbon in 1755. The Portuguese capital became my destination for a week-long getaway around New Year’s Eve. As always with my travels, I tried to answer the important questions: where to eat in Lisbon ? What to eat? And what to drink and where? However, I’m planning a separate post on that topic.
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Fish and seafood
Lisbon’s cuisine is primarily rich in fish and seafood dishes. The proximity of the river and ocean ensures constant access to fresh produce, both fresh and saltwater. Interestingly, there are even establishments in the Portuguese capital that specialize in a single dish and serve nothing else. Unfortunately, traditional Lisbon restaurants rarely offer a wide selection of vegetarian dishes, which for ambivores is a challenge and – for couples who want to try the classics – effectively means either eating two meals a day or settling for the very poor meatless offerings at iconic establishments (usually one, or two at most). Poland fares much better here. However, if you want it – there’s nothing difficult. We managed.
Bacalhau – cod in a thousand ways
Few fish have been interpreted as differently in Lisbon as cod. It’s no exaggeration to say that this fish has a cult following. There are bars, restaurants, and even entire chains specializing in bacalhau . It’s important to clarify that this isn’t just any ordinary cod. After being caught, the fish is cleaned, then salted, and matured this way for several weeks to a year. The excess salt is then removed and dried. The process is similar to aging beef, resulting in a firmer, more intense flavor. Cod prepared this way becomes the basis for a wide range of recipes. So where can you eat good cod in Lisbon ?
For bacalhau , I went to a place that specializes in this fish and has 23 different cod dishes on the menu! Casa do Bacalhau is a little further from the city center, but located near the Azulejo National Museum, where we happened to be. For an appetizer, I had the classic pastéis de bacalhau —delicate, creamy croquettes with a crispy, yet thin, crust. This is a basic version, different from the one served at a popular chain in the city center (more on that later). In addition to the cod, the croquettes also contained potatoes, onion, and parsley. A perfect start to your Lisbon tastings!
For my main course, I ordered bacalhau à brás , apparently Cristiano Ronaldo’s favorite dish. Portugal’s greatest footballer is everywhere here—his likenesses, mannequins, jerseys, scarves, and other merchandise displayed in shop windows make it impossible to forget where we are. Interestingly, Benfica dominates the city center in terms of clubs—I passed several of their flagship stores, but none of Sporting, where CR7 grew up. Sports memorabilia is mainly sold by the Força Portugal chain.
Returning to cod, bacalhau à brás is a dish made by mixing cod with an egg and small potato sticks (you’re probably familiar with those thin ketchup chips from the supermarket – that shape), parsley, and sliced olives. The whole thing creates a rather uniform, creamy whole. It’s a very tasty dish and should be served traditionally that way. However, elsewhere, the potatoes are served separately (on top), which keeps them crispy! I consider this an improvement on the original recipe. However, to answer the question of where to eat cod in Lisbon – I’d say at its home ( A Casa do Bacalhau means Cod’s House ). For the vegetarian option, we ordered a fresh salad with green asparagus – very good!
And where in Lisbon can you eat a slightly more… creative version of cod croquettes? While in the city center, you’re sure to encounter several Casa Portuguesa do Pastel de Bacalhau chain locations. These establishments are reminiscent of the arancini street food joints in Sicily and serve the croquettes you’ve already seen in the previous paragraph, only they’re stuffed with the distinctive Serra da Estrela sheep’s cheese. This product is certified by the EU as a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) and must meet very strict production standards. Interestingly, it doesn’t contain animal rennet (meaning it can be consumed by vegetarians, unlike, for example, Parmigiano Reggiano or Pecorino Romano). An enzyme extracted from artichokes is responsible for coagulation. Because Serra da Estrela is—despite its young age—a rather intense cheese, the croquettes from Casa Portuguesa do Pastel de Bacalhau have earned a reputation as a controversial product. For many people, the distinctive flavor of sheep’s milk cheese overshadows the delicate flavor of the fish. From a personal perspective, I can only say that I enjoy it .
Polvo – where to go for delicious octopus?
Man doesn’t live by cod alone, although he probably could in Lisbon if he wanted to. There are many more places specializing in bacalhau than I described above. Laurentina , for example, which I didn’t make it to. However, you have to diversify the menu, and I wanted to eat as many different things as possible. Octopus was certainly one of them. The Portuguese specialize in a dish called polvo à lagareiro . The octopus is first parboiled and then grilled . This ensures, if the chef knows what he’s doing, it’s firm on the inside and crispy on the outside—not rubbery. The next step is to pour plenty of hot olive oil over the dish, in which garlic and finely chopped onion have been sautéed. Add new potatoes in their jackets. Interestingly, this is a popular dish during… Christmas Eve! While I have always had a fondness for fried carp, I wouldn’t say no to polvo à lagareiro on the Christmas Eve table!
So where in Lisbon can you eat delicious polvo à lagareiro ? There are plenty of places, including classics featured in guidebooks, but I’ll suggest something different. I’m talking about Boca d’Uva . We were there on our first evening, right after landing. It’s a relatively new place, less than two years old, and already recognized in competitions as an excellent spot for wine and dinner. The photo above shows how wonderfully browned the octopus was. Perfectly crispy, caramelized skin, a meaty, firm interior, and aromatic toppings. The bar was set very high at the very beginning of the trip. Later, when I tried the octopus in a prego (a local variation on the burger) at Time Out Market at the O Prego da Peixaria stand, it couldn’t compete with the one in Boca d’Uva .
For the vegetarian option, we got fried leeks as an appetizer (delicious) and legumes à brás , a fishless version of the dish I had the following day at A Casa do Bacalhau . Here (you can see it at the top of the photo), the potatoes were served on a vegetable mishmash, which retained their crunch. It’s not the standard way to serve them, but in my opinion, it’s better.
Arroz marisco – a great feast accompanied by the sounds of fado
When I wrote earlier about places specializing in a single dish, I had in mind, for example, Uma Marisqueira , which has become a legendary spot for arroz marisco . We didn’t make it there, however, because an unexpected opportunity arose to try this dish earlier—and in a rather unusual location. When in Lisbon , you must set aside an evening for fado . It’s the music of the soul , much like blues, flamenco, or tango, which—according to legend—originates when longing sailors’ wives sang their sorrows while searching for their husbands on the horizon. I don’t know how much truth there is to this, but the story is romantic and intriguing enough that I’ll tell it as a given. Every evening on the narrow cobblestone streets of the Alfama district, fado seeps not only from the many bars and clubs dedicated to this music, but also from private homes. It would be a sin not to experience this part of Lisbon culture, especially since nothing touches the sensitive soul like immersing yourself in the sounds of fado in one of Alfama’s bars. Perhaps you’ll also discover the legendary saudade within yourself…
In one of these clubs – Sr. Fado We spent Saturday night there. During the several-hour feast for the soul, they also ensured that the body was well-fed. The five-course dinner included a cheese and cold cuts board, macaroni and cheese, fried chicken, and desserts, but the highlight was the arroz marisco . The portion intended for two people, which I tried to manage on my own, was definitely too large, though delicious. However, there was no option to order smaller—as is the case elsewhere. This is because this dish comes with a whole deep pan full of gigantic shrimp, scallops, mussels, and cod—all in a delicious, intense red broth. Boiled white rice is served alongside. It’s a true feast of flavors for seafood lovers, and as you nibble on each bite while listening to fado, you might actually feel like you’re spotting your loved one at a portside tavern. So I have no doubts when it comes to recommending a place where to eat delicious rice with seafood in Lisbon – go to Sr. Fado , make a reservation, and immerse yourself in this spiritual-physical spectacle.
Sardines, hot and in a can
Besides cod, the most popular fish in Lisbon is the good old sardine. Sardinhas assadas is a dish featuring sardines (I’ll probably write a separate article about my spelling of this word someday—it’s intentional, like other italicized idiolects!) grilled whole over charcoal. They’re usually seasoned with coarse salt, sometimes with garlic and olive oil. Unfortunately, the place I had bookmarked in the city center was closed for New Year’s, and I had to find another place to eat sardinhas assadas in Lisbon.
Luckily, fate smiled on me during a trip to Belém. While strolling along the boulevard near the Monument to the Discoveries, I spotted a charming food truck called Pescaria . While I paid seven times more for the supermarket wine, which I attribute to the location and views, the sardines were very good – albeit quite fatty. Fat, as we all know, carries flavor. Sardinhas assadas came with new potatoes in their jackets, a lemon wedge, and a salad of pickled onions, peppers, and olives. Very tasty, although a lot of work with the bones!
Besides sardinhas assadas , Lisbon is also famous for its canned sardines. The most famous shop, styled after the 1930s, is Conserveira da Lisboa , but we never got there during opening hours. So I bought my sardines at a more commercial, more expensive place that looked like… a circus or an amusement park. Of course, once you see the interior of O Mundo Fantastico da Sardinha Portuguesa , you know it’s a tourist spot. However, the decor of this shop was so Anderson-esque that I couldn’t resist, and my love of this style led me to buy my canned goods there. Yes, it’s expensive, but the selection is enormous, and some of the products aren’t the kind you’d find in every supermarket. I bought, for example, smoked cod roe!
Açorda, or the soup of the poor in the city of billionaires
Prophet Muhammad himself is said to have enjoyed this soup, and thanks to this, with the expansion of Arab influence in southern Europe, it is still served in Portuguese tascas . This most famous açorda originates from the Alentejo, but I had mine in the coastal town of Cascais. This is ironic, as açorda is a soup made with stale bread, originating from the lowest social classes. Cascais, in turn, is called the Portuguese Malibu or Monte Carlo, because its coast is adorned with billionaire villas, and the city itself often hosts the wealthiest celebrities, including Madonna and Cristiano Ronaldo. I took a short trip there from Lisbon, which I highly recommend.
The açorda I ate differs from the more popular version, with toast and poached eggs. At a restaurant with the rather unintelligible name John Bull in Cascais, they serve açorda with shrimp ( açorda de gambas ), where the bread is mixed with liquid to an almost porridge-like consistency (you can also get this version in Lisbon), and the egg is added as a raw yolk by the waiter at the table. Then the waiter mixes everything together, creating a thick slurry. I don’t know how orthodox it is to add a dozen cloves of garlic, but that’s what happened here. The dish had a very garlicky and marine flavor, which I liked, but I know that for many people who don’t eat much garlic, it would be too intense. A true elixir against vampires!
Prego de atum – tuna steak in a bun and craft beer
Many countries around the world have their own versions of fried meat in a bun. In the Balkans, they make delicious pljeskavica, hamburgers came to us from America, and in Portugal, crispy prego and bifana are eaten. At first glance, they look similar, but – as I learned – bifana should contain thinly sliced pork, while prego should contain beef. Portuguese burgers also differ from their overseas cousins in the bun – here, the emphasis is on crispiness, not soft or milky bread. For me, this is obviously a plus, as I’m a fan of all things crispy, and I value food texture as much as taste. There’s nothing worse than soggy fries, right?
Okay, so where can I get a good prego or bifana in Lisbon? There are quite a few places. Unfortunately, the legendary As Bifanas do Afonso was always closed when I passed by, so I didn’t get a chance to try these iconic sandwiches. However, if you’re nearby, let me know if it’s worth it. Luckily—quite unexpectedly—I stumbled upon a delicious prego at… a craft pub. I’ll write a separate article about the Lisbon beer scene, but since beer and food often intertwine, I also have to mention the Dois Corvos brewery taproom.
At ” Dwoma krukami ,” besides an excellent selection of craft beers, you can enjoy incredible prego de atum . It’s a tuna steak fried to a crispy crispy crust, wrapped in a delicious roll. The fish itself, known as ocean beef (though whalebone is also called that), was incredibly tender, melting in your mouth, and perfectly browned on the outside—yet raw on the inside. This is the perfect degree of doneness for a steak—even tuna. I’m not a huge fan of this fish, as it’s often dry or overdone. That wasn’t the case here. The juicy, tender meat is full of intense flavor. I absolutely recommend heading to Dois Corvos for a beer and prego de atum . You won’t regret it!
Meat and cheese
In addition to fish and seafood, Portugal eats a lot of meat. Iconic dishes include—in addition to the aforementioned prego and bifana — piri piri chicken , chouriço assado , and as a filling for caldo verde soup, as well as rice with duck ( arroz de pato ), which I didn’t get to try. And let’s not forget the incredible cold cuts, including the delicious porco preto , or black Iberian pig—one of the best in the world.
Frango piri-piri, or spicy chicken
So let’s start with piri piri chicken . The most legendary place for this dish is Bonjardim , but firstly, reservations weren’t possible there, and secondly, I didn’t see any vegetarian options. And once again, a craft pub came to the rescue. This time, it was the Crafty Corner , located on one of Alfama’s cobblestone streets, near the Sé Cathedral. Opposite, there’s a small ice cream parlor called Gelado de Alfama, with delicious pistachio gelato and friendly service.
At Crafty Corner , besides having a gigantic sampling board (12 samples from 12 taps! – I recommend it), they also serve burgers (including a veggie version) and the aforementioned chicken. Piri piri is a spicy sauce from Africa made with chili peppers of the same name. The wings at Crafty Corner arrive as a substantial portion of meat in a sweet and spicy sauce (very sweet for me), which pairs perfectly with the distinctive beers served on tap. I definitely recommend it.
Chouriço – flaming and dipped in caldo verde
But let’s move on to chouriço assado . In this case, we’re paying mainly for the visual experience, which is also important to me when traveling. This traditional, fatty pork sausage, richly seasoned with paprika, is slit lengthwise and then grilled . The most interesting element, however, is the way it’s served. The sausage is served on a terracotta grill , burning, and the guest must decide for themselves how well they want it done. Alternatively, you can cut off a piece and return it to the fire. This way, you can sample different degrees of doneness of the chouriço . To sample this iconic dish, I went to a place famous for it – Trobatadores . It’s a medieval-style underground tavern with a beautifully presented menu, a wooden interior, and stylish tableware. After all, both the beer and the mead (in the photo) were served here in clay, and not – typically – in glass.
The chouriço itself was my favorite, roasted, after the fire had died down and completely charred the top of the sausage. Fortunately, the portion wasn’t large, as I’d already eaten too much that day and still had dinner on the table. This time, I accompanied it with a local witbier, contract-made by the local brewery , Oitava Colina , and a hidromel, a Portuguese mead. It’s worth noting that while our traditional Polish meads (półtorak, dwójniak, trójniak, czwórniak) mature for a very long time and contain a high honey-to-water (and alcohol) ratio, Portuguese hidromels are very light, aged for only a few weeks, sometimes reaching 5% alcohol. Stronger meads are also available, but the trend towards producing light, session-sized meads is noticeable in Poland.
I hunted for caldo verde until almost the last day of my trip, and I succeeded on the eve of our departure from Portugal. From Lisbon, we took a trip to nearby Sintra , known as the most romantic town in Portugal. Its charming streets, gardens, and palace cloisters were frequented by such predecessors as Lord Byron, Hans Christian Andersen, and Richard Strauss.
I always value the recommendations of great figures of that era, knowing that thanks to my spiritual connection to the intellectual currents and emotionality of the time, I will appreciate the atmosphere that captivated travelers of yesteryear. I remember the majesty of the cypresses in Verona, under which Goethe loved to sit. Gazing at them, I felt an energy permeating me. These are the moments when our wanderlust plays in unison at different points in time, and spirits speak through the stones and trees.
Returning to the food, we ended up at a small inn called Tasca do Xico , where a very friendly lady sadly remarked that the soup of the day wasn’t vegetarian. I asked if it was somehow caldo verde , and to our mutual surprise, the answer was yes. Green soup , as it’s called here, is made with a broth made from couve-galega (Portuguese cabbage, also known as kale) or other greens (to which it owes its color) and potatoes, then enriched with slices of chouriço.
Everything was in its place, and a plate of caldo verde would be a lifesaver for many a hiker traversing the steep paths leading to Sintrian palaces. For the vegetarian option, we got a pan of rice with vegetables.
Bifanas – is the food at the Lisbon market good?
Where to eat bifanas in Lisbon if As Bifanas do Afonso is permanently closed? I found a recommendation to try Portuguese burgers with thinly sliced pork at O Engenheiro das Bifanas . This mobile spot is stationed during the holiday season at Wonderland Lisboa , a fair held in Eduardo VII Park. This opportunity also allowed me to assess how the local Christmas market compares to Bethlehem in Poznań.
I have to admit, it looked rather average in the photos, but when we arrived, I was captivated. It’s a shame it was already evening and getting cold, because I would have happily spent a bit more time there. Wonderland Lisboa offered more attractions like carousels and Ferris wheels, the stalls were full of local artisan products, and the food was dominated by Lisbon flavors. Prices—as is typical for a Christmas market—were not the lowest. However, I don’t mean to criticize Bethlehem Poznański, as I also enjoy going there—just not buying food.
At O Engenheiro das Bifanas, I chose the version packed with toppings, which might not have been the best option. Don’t get me wrong— the bifana was very tasty, but the traditional version only contains thinly sliced pork, not extra bacon and cheese. Regardless, I recommend it—wherever they’re standing when the fair ends and you’re reading this. Or next year…
There was also no shortage of meatless options at the fair, such as hot dogs with white bean sausages.
Greek pitas in Portugal? – why not!
When traveling around the world, I always prioritize local flavors. However, sometimes there’s so little time between one sightseeing stop and another that you have to settle for something else. We didn’t have much time in Belém, so rushing between the Jerónimos Monastery, the National Treasure Museum, and the Belém Tower, we needed to grab something quick.
Where to eat in Lisbon’s Belém district when you’re in a hurry? For example, near the Princess Fountain, we stumbled upon the food truck pita.gr owned by Chef Thassos , which has a very high Google rating. They served Greek pitas in a variety of options—both meaty and meatless.
We chose both and sat down at a table in the garden. To our surprise, we saw two green parrots hanging out in a tree! I didn’t know they lived wild here, but a quick online check revealed that this species does indeed live in the wild in Portugal. Listening to their song, we devoured Greek pitas. My sutsukaki could have used more meat, but the vegetarian one was packed to the brim. Overall, both tasted delicious. The parrots’ company added to the magic of dining together with a view of the Belém Tower.
Time Out Market – a place for young and dynamic people
Perhaps it’s age taking its toll, but I hate it when loud music interrupts my eating – especially club music, which I can’t stand. For this reason, I didn’t like going to Phobar or Punkt Sporny in Poznań. I much prefer the accompaniment of fado, blues, jazz, piano, or simply silence.
Time Out Market was established in the Mercado da Ribeira market buildings, right next to the Cais do Sodré train station. It’s the first concept sponsored by British magazine Time Out, aiming to create a food hall serving local dishes and produce, while also serving as a meeting space for young people and hosting workshops and art exhibitions. It’s the kind of market that Warsaw’s Hala Koszyki aspires to be—with all due respect, as I frequent it too.
Time Out Market is a very popular place, and it’s very crowded and noisy regardless of the hour. Besides that, the food is quite good. Among the over thirty kiosks, you can find offerings from famous chefs, as well as burgers, pizzas, and artisanal meats and cheeses. It was to buy the latter that I arrived there in the evening.
I actually visited Time Out Market twice. The first time, at Manteigaria Silva , whose central location in the city was closed, I bought a delicious cold cuts and cheese board, dominated by thinly sliced black Iberian ham ( porco preto ), whose flavor rivals not only the legendary hams of Parma, the Black Forest, or Spain, but also the finest beef. There were also breads, cheeses, pineapple, and pickled lupins. Incidentally, I’ve never seen pickled lupins as a side dish in any other country, but tremoços , as they’re called here, are quite an interesting appetizer. Of course, I paired the board with a distinctive red wine.
After grabbing a snack that effectively served as my lunch, I did some takeout shopping. I’d compiled a whole list of award-winning cheeses I wanted to bring back to Poland. I bought: Azeitão (a distinctive soft cheese made from unpasteurized sheep’s milk) from the artisanal cheesemaker Victor Fernandes; Ilha São Jorge , a hard cheese aged for 50 months with a distinct, spicy character; a hefty portion of Serra da Estrela , which I mentioned above with the cod croquettes; and a small wheel of Prados de Melgaço , which is rubbed with hot peppers and steeped in Alvarinho wine during the maturation process. All four are completely different but incredibly delicious cheeses that everyone should try.
The second time I ordered prego with octopus at O Prego da Peixaria , but there was little of it and it didn’t live up to the one from Boca d’Uva .
Breakfasts
Where to eat breakfast in Lisbon? This is a tricky question, as many people recommend Dear Breakfast , but we didn’t make it there, preferring to grab something close to the sightseeing spots. On our first day, we went to Pequeno at the Arroios roundabout, but the breakfast was poor and not worth the price. The next day, we went to the Pentagon cafe – and it was better. We ordered two avocado items: toast and canjeero . It’s a type of Somali pancake, similar to the Moroccan baghrir.
The combination of avocado, nuts, tomatoes, greens, peanut butter, and hot sauce on the canjeero worked perfectly together. They also advertise themselves as a specialty coffee spot, but honestly, I haven’t found a good cup of coffee anywhere in Lisbon . I wasn’t specifically looking for coffee spots, as I didn’t have time for that, but the places I visited tend to serve a typical dark-roasted Italian-style brew, which likely has many fans, but I prefer something more modern and fruity and floral.
On other days, we mostly ate sweet breakfasts at places serving pastéis de nata , as I love them and wanted to try versions from as many different pastry shops as possible. This reminded me of November and the great St. Martin’s croissant test, which you could follow on Instagram .
Sweets
So, since we’ve reached this point, the question must be asked: where are the best pastéis de nata in Lisbon? I decided to find out and tried several places. In fact, I ate several different custard cupcakes every day, finally choosing the most delicious ones. However, Lisbon and its surrounding areas don’t live by pastéis de nata alone. But first things first!
Pastéis de nata and pastéis de Belém – captivating crispness and creamy velvet
According to legend, the first cupcakes, made of flaky, leafy pastry and filled with a creamy custard, were created in the 18th century in the Jerónimos Monastery in Belém. To this day, they are served only in one place – the nearby Pastéis de Belém , where for many years long lines have formed all day long to sample these delicacies. You can take the cupcakes to go or enjoy them at your table. The place itself is a maze of beautifully decorated rooms, so it’s worth at least a stroll to see what it looks like inside.
Both the internet and friends recommended going straight to a table, as the kilometer-long line waiting on the street was mainly for the takeout window. When we arrived, it turned out that… everyone seemed to have heeded this advice and joined the queue for tables. Meanwhile, there were maybe five people waiting for takeout. So I bought some pastéis de Belém at the counter and, holding it in my hand, began to explore the place. You can also peer through the glass into the kitchen and watch the workers hard at work churning out thousands of baked goods a day. As for serving, the muffins are usually eaten dusted with powdered sugar and cinnamon, although it’s also worth trying them plain to see how they taste on their own.
So how do Belém pastéis differ from the pastéis de nata offered by pastry shops in central Lisbon? First and foremost, the pastry. Belém pastries are much more crumbly, with a texture reminiscent of thin layers of leaves. Since the Belém pastéis recipe is secret, Lisbon pastry shops try to imitate the original in their own way. Of course, there’s no room for fakes. Pastéis de nata is a fully-fledged regional product, delicious, and world-renowned. However, it’s worth trying these custard cupcakes where they originated—in Belém—to experience the original flavor.
In the very center of Lisbon, practically every street has a place where you can try pastéis de nata . The most popular are the Manteigaria pastry shop, where you can also watch the cupcakes being made. It’s now a chain of locations, one of which is located… practically next door to Pastéis de Belém ! In my opinion, when it comes to central pastry shops, Manteigaria wins, although we’ve had equally good pastéis at Fabrica da Nata and Confeitaria Nacional . At Gelado de Alfama, on the other hand, they were soft and not crunchy at all. However, they’re practically everywhere, even at the Oceanarium and regular cafes.
They make exceptional pastéis de nata at Nata Portuguesa , in San Domenico Square, across from a church that survived the earthquake and fire, its pillars still bearing the marks of both disasters. The custard there has a lemongrass flavor, which makes their cupcakes stand out from the rest.
Bolo rei
During Christmas and Epiphany, the Portuguese enjoy round cakes filled with colorful icing and dried fruit. The aforementioned Confeitaria Nacional is most famous for them, but we received our king cake from our host, straight from the Christmas table. Taste-wise, it’s simply a very sweet cake—a match for pastéis de nata .
Sweets from Sintra
During our short trip to Sintra (45 minutes from central Lisbon), besides caldo verde and romantic views, we also wanted to sample some of the local delicacies. What to eat in Sintra? Sweet treats! Casa Piriquita has been operating there since 1862, serving typical Sintra desserts.
At this legendary pastry shop, we bought five different pastries: travesseiro , a puff pastry filled with egg (in this region, many baked goods are made with eggs), sugar, and almonds; two different coconut cakes ( bolos de coco ); queijada , a cupcake with cheese, eggs, sugar, and cinnamon; and pastel da Cruz Alta , where a paste made from… white beans is added to the typical egg-almond cream! Piriquita is also famous for nouzes doradas (golden walnut cookies) and pastel de Sintra , the Sintrian answer to pastel de nata, made with eggs and sugar, but we didn’t try them.
Queijadas not only from Sintra
Walking through the Graça district (which is no longer a separate district, but the locals still call it that), heading towards the viewpoints from which one can observe Lisbon from above, I was intrigued by a carefully designed, beautiful place – Condes da Praia . They sell baked goods typical not of Lisbon, but of the town of Praia da Vitória, located in the Portuguese Azores, specifically on the island of Terceira. These are queijadas , or cheese-based cupcakes, but they taste completely different from those from Sintra. They’re definitely worth a try!
Ovos moles, raivas, chocolates and teas at Casa Pereira da Conceição
Casa Pereira da Conceição is a legendary place, run for decades by an elderly gentleman. It sparked controversy among young people due to its seemingly inappropriate sign, made nearly a century ago and depicting stereotypical African and Asian people. For decades, it sold not only sweets but also, above all, unique hot chocolates and teas. Last year, the sign disappeared. Currently, friendly women work there and are happy to advise on the products offered.
Once there, I bought—as planned— ovos moles —literally soft eggs . These are typical Aveiro sweets, consisting of—of course—eggs and sugar. The filling is stuffed into a shell made of either rice paper or a very thin wheat flour sachet, giving the outer layer the consistency of a wafer. Besides the ovos moles, I also bought raivas , characteristic twisted sponge cakes. Thanks to the friendly staff, I also had the opportunity to sample hot chocolate and coffee, for which I sincerely thank them, and I wholeheartedly recommend this place. It’s not cheap, but it’s beautiful and tasty. You can also buy collectible cups.
Vegetarian food in Lisbon
When I travel, I always try to find delicious places with meatless cuisine. This time, even a traditional dinner at a Michelin-starred restaurant ended up at such a place. In fact, it turned out we also had a prelude in the form of another tasting dinner, as one of the restaurants on New Year’s Eve didn’t allow à la carte orders. We had more places booked, but for various reasons, we didn’t make it to two or three. Ultimately, we settled on four meatless places – two more street food-oriented and two more elegant.
Veganapati
Near the Church of St. Dominic, on Nata Portuguesa Street and two ginjinha joints, you’ll find Veganapati . This vegan restaurant serves Mexican and Indian cuisine, burgers , and more , along with a wide selection of wines, cocktails, and other spirits. We chose the Holi burger on a beetroot bun with tomato chutney, coleslaw, caramelized onions, and fries, as well as the tacos al pastor in a corn tortilla with marinated seitan, guacamole, pico de gallo, and pineapple. Quite tasty.
Plant Base
The Plant Base restaurant is also a concept focused more on junk food , but with a touch of flavor. We visited just before our flight. What surprised me was that in a plant-based restaurant that—of course—is supposed to promote ecology, nature, etc., all the decorations were… plastic. Plastic plants in a vegetarian restaurant? That didn’t sit well with me.
As for the food, it tasted pretty good. Both the fries and the burger were exactly what they should have been—except for maybe that hideous artificial cheese substitute, which I absolutely loathe. At Plant Base, however, I even overlook that. They also have great beer—Urraca Vendaval IPA from Oitava Colina is one of the better beers I had this trip—bitter, clear, and dry.
Tasting Dinner #1 – Kong
Where to eat vegetarian fine dining in Lisbon? Surprisingly, there are quite a few places. I wanted to go to Kong restaurant because, according to VegClub Magazine, it’s the best vegan restaurant in Europe ! Happy Cow, a popular website that aggregates meatless restaurant reviews, ranked Kong third. After such recommendations, we went there with high expectations.
However, it was New Year’s Eve, and I received a message from the manager that only the seven-course tasting menu would be available. I was expecting a slightly less exclusive—and, above all, shorter—experience, as we had a Christmas reservation at Encanto the following day. But it was either that or no, so I replied that I would be happy to.
It started off with a high “C” because the vegan ” scallops ” with strawberry onion chutney were simply delicious. We also ordered two pairings: wine and a non-alcoholic beverage. And—unfortunately— Kong fell off that high horse with a bang. But it wasn’t about the food or the incredibly friendly and dedicated staff.
The restaurant failed miserably in terms of organization, table management, and synchronization. The list of cardinal sins of the evening included: one of the seven courses was served cold, one arrived in the wrong order, I didn’t receive one wine but received two different ones, I sat for 35 minutes with an empty plate and glass, I received wines that should have been paired at completely random times, and so on. I want to emphasize that I have no complaints about the service. Clearly, the restaurant didn’t handle the event well organizationally, and probably in terms of training, as we didn’t learn much about the dishes, and I like to know every detail in such places.
The next course was supposed to be cream of cauliflower soup , but I got cold grilled vegetables . I asked about the cream four times. In the meantime, they replaced my (clean, unused!) cutlery and glasses several times, but there was nothing on the plate. A Czech film. The seitan medallions with their strange construction of roughly chopped fries were delicious, and that damn cauliflower cream also tasted really good once I got it. I really can’t complain about the food.
The same was true for desserts. The lime mousse shot , the Eton Mess , and even the petit fours in the form of mini Snickers, truffles, and pastel de nata were truly delicious. It’s just that organization… I’d love to go back, but order something from the menu, and not on New Year’s Eve, because I’m sure the experience would be much better than what we had.
Tasting Dinner #2 – Encanto by José Avillez – Michelin *
On New Year’s Day, we went to Encanto . It’s one of two sister restaurants located next to each other. Belcanto has two Michelin stars and serves a meat menu, while Encanto has one and is a fully vegetarian establishment. Since there aren’t two different menu options, we went to Encanto . I can tell you right away that I don’t regret it. It was an incredible feast, full of wonderful textures, flavors, and aromas, the chef’s passion evident in every dish, and the excellent service. So, if you’re asking where to eat in Lisbon at the highest, star-studded level, I wholeheartedly recommend Encanto . I say this as a self-confessed carnivore who has absolutely everything to offer. This outstanding chef is capable of preparing meatless cuisine that will satisfy every gourmet’s needs.
The dinner consisted of twelve moments , each with its own wine and non-alcoholic beverages—kombucha, infusions, extracts, vinegars, lemonades, and more. First, we were served eggs. Specifically, golden eggs stuffed with hummus and coated with edible gold. And I knew it was going to be good. Next, Jerusalem artichoke , or Jerusalem artichoke, paired with its more common counterpart, in many forms simultaneously—in a cracker, with puree, with seeds, all served on sunflower blossoms. Play with me. Tasting dinners of this caliber are also a performance, the art of serving dishes, a spectacle in itself. As the third moment, the waitress brought a red-hot stone, which she dipped into a sweet potato stuffed with her own puree. Then she scooped out the warmed inside of the sweet potato with a spoon and arranged it on a plate alongside other edible parts: a tempura leaf, a flower, and two kinds of stuffed chips.
The next course was an apple stuffed with chestnut puree, fried funnel cake, pickled mini strawberries, and apple slices in ponzu sauce. The lid was filled with apple kombucha jelly. The whole thing was sprinkled with grated black chestnut. Definitely one of my favorites of the evening. The fifth moment paid tribute to seaweed . It was a miso soup with seaweed and mushrooms, as well as a crispy tartlet filled with seaweed and lemon paste. Next came a vegetarian cozido made with nine kinds of vegetables, accompanied by incredibly delicious sourdough rye bread.
We were already halfway through, and our appetite was only growing thanks to the incredible flavors served by the Encanto restaurant. The seventh course was thinly sliced beetroot , grilled for two hours, whose texture resembled meat. We also had spinach puree, various leaves (such as chard), and chips. Number eight was another one of my favorites: wild mushroom risotto with pear foam, shio koji, and parsley, and a mushroom “scallop.” Next, we had puff pastry stuffed with potatoes and leek puree, topped with verjuice and summer truffle.
When it came time for dessert, Encanto served us hoshigaki , fermented persimmon with blue cheese on a cracker sandwich. The second sweet item was abade de priscos pudding with nasturtium flowers, a yeast cracker, and lime caviar. Another sweet treat was pine nuts with lemon and vegan chocolate made with perilla leaves. To finish, we also enjoyed bonus edible flowers and truffles. I rate the entire experience as fantastic and recommend this place to everyone, not just vegetarians. The best items of the evening were Jerusalem artichoke, risotto, beetroot, and apple.
I hope this article has given you a little insight into Lisbon’s culinary scene. We missed many iconic spots, but almost everywhere we went was delicious and interesting. We’ll definitely be back to sample more—especially those that were either closed ( Floresta das Escadinhas , As Bifanas do Afonso , O Velho Eurico ) or off the beaten track ( Adega das Gravatas ). I’ll also soon write a separate post about craft beer in Lisbon, with a paragraph about other beverages. Enjoy!
Not just a foodie, but also a self-taught chef who cooks and tests recipes from around the globe. A traveler and connoisseur of great dishes across countries and cultures. Certified beer sensory specialist. Owner of a contract craft brewery renowned for wild, experimental brews. A former homebrewer with deep know-how in brewing techniques and beer styles. Loves pushing flavor boundaries—both on the plate and in the glass. His motto: “Go big or go home.”