Chilean Patagonia offers not only dreamlike landscapes at the edge of the world, but also unique flavors worth discovering. In this region, you’ll savor everything from fresh fish and seafood straight from the Pacific, to succulent meats roasted over a live flame, to sweet delicacies made from wild fruits. This guide will take you on a journey through the most delicious dishes and places in Patagonia , suggesting what to eat, where to try local specialties, and how to plan a culinary adventure in Chile’s wildest and most beautiful region. Brew yourself a cup of yerba mate, put aside your distractions, and let’s embark on a journey full of flavors together – from the markets in Puerto Montt, through the mountain towns along the Carretera Austral, to the trendy bars in the tourist meccas of Torres del Paine: Puerto Natales and Punta Arenas. Enjoy your Patagonia exploration!
We began our dream journey through the vast Patagonian wilderness where all travelers traverse the famous Route 7, Carretera Austral, meet: in Puerto Montt . Right next to the kilometer zero sign of this most beautiful scenic road in South America, stands the nearly hundred-year-old Tablón del Ancla tavern, which, within its legendary premises, welcomes all adventure-seeking travelers embarking on their journey.
Fairs and markets
But before we sat down on the wooden benches of Puerto Montt’s most famous pub, we went to two places where locals shop in every town: the municipal market and the supermarket. Specifically, we even visited two markets: the Mercado Municipal Presidente Ibañez and the Mercado Tipico Angelmó .
The former caters specifically to the residents of this town of nearly 300,000. The stands are brimming with fresh fish and seafood, and a blaze of colors and aromas greets visitors from the very entrance. It was here that I bought beautiful, large, juicy cherries for… two złoty per kilogram. Besides that, they have literally everything you could desire in terms of fresh produce. Plus, they have fantastic spices – including, of course, the legendary merkén . This is smoked hot ají pepper, usually mixed with salt. Chileans add merkén to everything – not just meat and fish, but even… drinks! In Santiago, I tried a michelada ( a beer-based drink ) with merkén as the rim of the glass! An interesting experience.
Pickles are also very popular in Patagonia. This region blends the influences of indigenous peoples—Tehuelcha, Mapuche, Yagan, Selk’nam, and others—with Latin American and… German influences. It was Germans who populated these areas en masse in the 19th century, building settlements and cities, leaving a lasting mark on the local cuisine. So, don’t be surprised by sauerkraut, cucumbers, or other fermented foods—such as whole pickled red onions, cauliflower, carrots, or turnips.
Angelmó, on the other hand, is the market where all the tourists flock, as it’s located by the port where the ferry to Chaitén departs. The area is swarming with restaurants (locals advise against them, calling them a tourist trap), stalls selling traditional clothing and accessories, and at the very end, there’s the fish market. The main attraction here comes just before closing time. Vendors have to get rid of unsold fish, a fact well-known to the local… Patagonian sea lions, who are just waiting for a tasty dinner thrown into the water.
A visit to a Chilean supermarket was a particularly interesting observation, where the American influence is immediately noticeable. Everything is enormous! I couldn’t find, for example, a small drinking yogurt – they were all over a liter. The rolls are sold in packs of several or a dozen, wrapped in plastic bags. The fruit is enormous – especially the watermelons. There are also many varieties of bananas and plantains, including green ones intended solely for frying and unpalatable raw. Finally, there are sweets – apart from a few local products, the Nestle corporation dominates, but… my attention was particularly drawn to the prominent premium item: Goplana! Yes, Polish Goplana is a luxury product there, more expensive than German sweets and coveted by Chilean sweet tooths.
Fish and seafood – the wealth of Patagonian waters
Because Patagonia lies on the ocean and is crisscrossed by numerous fjords and rivers, with crystal-clear glacial lakes, it boasts a wealth of the most delicious seafood and fish. The aforementioned fish markets—like those in Puerto Montt—are filled with endless stalls offering fresh mussels, crabs, shrimp, cod, hake, and salmon. Interestingly, salmon is not an endemic Patagonian fish. It was the Germans who brought this fish to southern Chile and made it a local delicacy. Unfortunately, industrial salmon farming has ecological consequences—both for the waters and their native inhabitants.
Paila marina and caldillo de congrio – Patagonian fish soups
Fish soups are known everywhere where there’s water. The French have bouillabaisse, the Scots have Cullen skink, and in Chile, paila marina and caldillo de congrio are the most popular choices. It was the latter that intrigued me on the menu at the famous Tablón del Ancla .
This raises a nomenclature issue, where scientific and common names clash. Theoretically, “congrio” is a conger eel, meaning a fish of the eel family. However, in this dish, the most common names used are “congrio colorado” or “congrio dorado ,” both of which are members of the Genypterus genus. Things get even more interesting because the latter is commercially known as “ocean burbot,” even though burbot is a completely different fish! Quite a mouthful, eh?
In any case, congrio , or more precisely, a soup called caldillo de congrio, holds a special place in the hearts of Chileans. Indeed, their Nobel Prize-winning poet, Pablo Neruda, even wrote an ode to this dish ! Unfortunately, I didn’t get to try it in Puerto Montt. It had just run out. I only ate it a few days later in Puyuhuapi, at the Mi Sur restaurant. It’s made with fish head broth, with the addition of boiled potatoes, onions, garlic, carrots, hot and sweet peppers, and white wine. Of course, congrio meat is added. It’s a true comfort food for lovers of home-cooked flavors from the ocean.
Since I didn’t get caldillo at Tablón , I settled for the other signature dish – paila marina . Another linguistic curiosity: paila sounds very similar to the familiar Spanish paella , doesn’t it? Both words refer to a shallow metal – or in this case, clay – vessel used for preparing food. And what’s the Polish word for “a shallow, wide vessel for preparing food”? Yes. Frying pan , paella , and paila are all variants of the same word!
In Chile, paila marina soup is prepared in a clay pot, which is also the dish served in. The base of paila marina is a shellfish broth, which is poured over sautéed vegetables: onions, carrots, red peppers, garlic, and celery. It’s seasoned with generous amounts of savory, and then topped with various seafood: clams, mussels, shucks, shrimp, locos (Chilean abalone, a type of sea snail), and smoked mackerel. Of course, it wouldn’t be fish soup without white wine, so it’s also used here. A true warming feast from the sea! Patagonians believe there’s no better hangover cure than paila marina .
If you’re lucky enough, you might even stumble upon a local grandma or grandpa at one of the markets preparing one of these two delicious soups in a clay pot—just as the people of Patagonia have been doing for decades. Don’t spare a single peso!
Chupe de jaiba – crab casserole
And what about the second course? Well, before I even boarded the ferry, I had to try another delicacy. This time, it was the irresistible crab casserole— chupe de jaiba . Of course, there’s also some debate about the specific type of crab used in this dish. The English menu mentions stone crab, but that’s again a simplification for American tourists (they live in the waters surrounding Florida), as it’s most likely that the metacarcinus edwardsii is caught in Chile. But let’s leave the details aside.
Chupe de jaiba is a hearty dish made with local crab meat, bread soaked in milk, spices, onions, white wine, and loads of cheese. It’s all baked in a clay pot and then served piping hot. The creamy consistency, yet with a texture somewhat reminiscent of white pulled meat, and the rich, burnt cheese give us plenty of energy for hiking after such a meal. Or even for sleeping! Especially after a bowl of paila and a local craft beer…
Ceviche and fresh fish from Patagonia – from salmon to hake
I remember the first time I tried ceviche at the now-defunct Peruvian restaurant La Baya in Poznań . It was incredible: spicy from whole, fresh habanero peppers, refreshing from cilantro and red onion, and exquisitely tantalizing from raw fish. It was from Peru that this dish came to Chile. Due to its geographical location, you’ll find it more readily in the north than in Patagonia, but you can still find tasty variations there. I had mine in the town of Puyuhuapi, founded by Germans emigrating from the Sudetes.
Specifically, at Comuy-Huapi —a wood-paneled restaurant open only from spring to summer—I had a delicious, refreshing white fish ceviche with vegetable chips, red onion, and lime juice. If you happen to be there during the season, be sure to check it out.
While ceviche came to Chile from Peru, there are plenty of dishes well-known in one form or another on our tables and menus. In Patagonia, hake and salmon are especially plentiful. Although the latter was imported from Germany, and its farming is controversial, it has become a staple of the Patagonian menu. Suffice it to say that in traditional bistros serving home-cooked food, the choices are usually chicken, beef, and salmon or hake . They are served oven-roasted, grilled, or breaded. You could even get local fish and chips in Patagonia.
I ordered breaded hake at La Pica de los Colonos in picturesque Futaleufú. It’s a home-style bistro, serving only meat and fish. The only vegetarian option was a salad (the same as the fish, only with more tomato) with hard-boiled eggs, optionally available. The hake tasted very home-style, drizzled with lemon and topped with fresh tomato, cucumber, and… canned corn.
I had my best salmon in Chaitén, after descending the difficult trail to the local volcano that flooded the entire town with lava in 2008 – at a restaurant called, aptly enough… El Volcán . This is what happens when a town’s tragedy becomes its tourist attraction. A solid piece of baked fillet landed on my plate, but it was completely covered in merkén. They also made sure the outer layer was properly caramelized, without overcooking the center. I can honestly say that this salmon from El Volcán in Chaitén is one of the best I’ve ever had.
Locos and centolla – sea delicacies (Chilean abalone and king crab)
I’ve mentioned locos before. I first came across them in a grocery store and had no idea what was in the jars—similar to the ones we sell rollmops in here. I read online that in Polish, they’re called “Chilean abalone” and are a type of sea snail. They resemble white-gray tongues in shape. They’re often served as a cold appetizer, accompanied by a garlic-lemon sauce and… a vegetable salad.
Interestingly, I haven’t seen locos in Patagonian restaurants. Perhaps in the exclusive resorts of Torres del Paine National Park, they are indeed available in restaurants, but I only encountered locos in jars at the store. It wasn’t until I arrived in the capital, Santiago, that I saw abalone on the menu at the Liguria restaurant, which serves craft beer. I ordered it, and I must admit, it was a very interesting experience. I couldn’t compare the taste or texture of abalone to anything else. Perhaps a firmer, meatier ceviche? It’s definitely something worth trying in Patagonia!
Centolla is a completely different story. King crab is to Patagonian waters what wagyu beef is to the Japanese table. It’s the pride and joy of the entire Magallanes region. To eat the best king crab , you have to go there. Of course, Puerto Natales is the base for trips to Torres del Paine National Park, so it’s full of tourists from wealthy countries, but the prices aren’t so high that you’d be afraid to dine in a restaurant. If not there, you can also get delicious centolla in the region’s capital, Punta Arenas.
My first experience with king crab was at the Afrigonia restaurant in Puerto Natales, which combines Patagonian and African flavors. I ordered a dish called the Australian King, which consisted of three small portions of various crab dishes. These included king crab baked under cheese, a crab mousse that could be scooped up with crab sticks, and fresh crab —raw, drizzled only with lime. For those seeking a variety of experiences, I recommend this option, as it allows you to try three different dishes. All were delicious.
These are just a few of the options centolla appears in on menus. Local chefs are constantly trying to come up with new ways to present the region’s greatest culinary pride to tourists. So, if you’re wondering what to eat in Patagonia, king crab will definitely be at the forefront. It’s its true symbol.
Meat and traditional Patagonian dishes
Patagonia is a carnivore’s paradise – vast pastures favor sheep and cattle breeding, and the harsh climate encourages hearty, warming dishes. Game is also plentiful, though it comes in rather unusual forms. So what are the region’s traditional meat dishes , and where are the best places to try them?
Cordero al palo – Patagonian lamb from the campfire
Typical Patagonia food is meat with additives. There’s no escaping it. Meat is everywhere. For breakfast, lunch, and dinner. This region of the world is a true paradise for carnivores and a nightmare for vegetarians and vegans. The best restaurants in Patagonia are those that serve the most delicious—though controversial for many due to its rather specific preparation method—dish: cordero al palo .
A young lamb is butchered and hung whole on metal racks, then placed around a fire and roasted for hours while engaging in conversation with other asadors. Cordero al palo isn’t just about food—it’s a true ritual cultivated for generations by gauchos, or South American cowboys.
To truly experience the taste of this meat, it’s better to attend a traditional festival instead of a restaurant. I was fortunate enough to be in Cochrane just as the town’s most important event was taking place – Fiesta Costumbrista . This festival, during which entire villages and towns celebrate ancient traditions, such as wild horse riding and folk dancing, also provides an opportunity to trade handicrafts, preserves, and ethnic clothing. So, I bought dried morels from an elderly Cochrane resident, as well as jams and liqueurs made from calafate – the boxwood barberry – a fruit emblematic of Patagonia.
At such a festival, of course, there had to be food! Guests had a dozen or so food stations at their disposal. Unfortunately, they all served practically the same thing! Empanadas (90% of them with meat), fries, sweets, and loads of meat. It was easy to compare who roasted lamb or pork better. It was there that I was tempted to try a whole lamb shank from a real asador, a person who roasted the meat.
It was exactly as you’d think. A few middle-aged men in tucked-in shirts and bushy mustaches were smoking cigarettes and drinking beer next to a rickety table with a money box and bowls of condiments. Behind them, smoke filled the air, a fire, and a roasting lamb. I walked over and asked for the best cut. I got a whole lamb shank, hewn in front of me with a large butcher’s knife, and a Chilean salad . That’s a fancy name for… raw tomatoes and onions drizzled with olive oil. Add sopaipilla , a kind of deep-fried bread with pumpkin, potatoes, a calafate beer, and that’s it—that’s life. A Polish gringo could feel like a true gaucho.
Interestingly, the meat itself tasted much better at the Arisca Brewery restaurant in Puerto Rio Tranquilo, but it didn’t quite have the same atmosphere as the festival in Cochrane. However, I’ve never had Maillard like this anywhere else but at this port tavern near Lake Chelenko!
Patagonian grilling culture—or asado —is not limited to cordero al palo . Chileans love grilling just as much as Poles. Patagonian specialties often include a variety of grilled dishes. Some establishments have even invested in small grills placed on tables, where you can finish cooking your own meat while chatting with your dining companions. I experienced just such a meaty communion at the Estancia Perales restaurant, reached by catamaran from the Balmaceda and Serrano glaciers.
On our way back, we docked at the Estancia, and the tables were filled with mountains of meat, placed on small grills. We could choose from various cuts of lamb and chicken. While chatting with other travelers, I feasted on delicious cordero —this time grilled by myself.
Andean guanaco – game not for the faint of heart
There are certain dishes that make even carnivores give up . Dog or cat are the most common, but for some it’s also horse or rabbit. A traditional dish in Patagonia, dating back to the times of nomadic peoples and early settlers, is the Andean guanaco —known locally as guanaco . It is one of four members of the camelid family found in Chile. The others are llama, alpaca, and vicuña. In ancient times, it was the most common source of food and a prerequisite for survival in the wild Patagonian steppe. Today, it appears on menus more as a curiosity and an echo of ancient traditions.
Alpaca enthusiasts will likely have the same hesitation about eating these abundant animals—which come within a few meters of humans—as horseback riders do about horse meat. I can understand that. However, I couldn’t pass up the opportunity. After all, I probably won’t have the chance to try this meat again. Guanaco appears mainly on menus in Magallanes, where the majority of tourists are. It’s not a meat available in typical home-cooking establishments along the Carretera Austral. That should tell you something, too.
In Puerto Natales and Punta Arenas, you can try guanaco in tartare, burgers, steaks, and whatever your heart desires. I ordered the guanaco raw. It tasted good, similar to venison or deer tartare, but a well-made beef tartare is the winner. I also tried guanaco soup, more on that later.
Kitchen that tastes like home
Typical Patagonian food, however, is home-cooked . I’ve already mentioned simple fish dishes, and I’ve also mentioned that in Patagonian restaurants located in smaller towns, the selection is usually limited to a few dishes. One of them is usually some form of beef. However, these aren’t the dishes we’re familiar with from Instagram steakhouses. The meat is prepared traditionally, home-cooked.
Returning along one of the most beautiful branches of the Carretera Austral – the road to Chile Chico, which winds along Lake Chelenko (Lago General Carrera), we stopped in Puerto Guadal. There’s a charming restaurant called El Lengal (now renamed Barbotina Pizzas, but it’s the same place). They serve daily specials – fish, meat, and vegetarian options. Having opted for the beef, I received three substantial pieces of beef on my plate. They had no Maillard sauce, were swimming in a brown sauce, and were accompanied by raw vegetables: lettuce, tomato, and carrot. A slice of lemon was also included.
I don’t like stewed meat. I love crispy, well-seared skin. However, here I gave this very home-style dish a chance. The beef was tender, perfectly complemented the sauce, and the refreshing salad provided ample counterpoint. For the vegetarian option, we got eggplant baked under cheese, which is an outstanding dish for this region, as the usual meatless option is fries or baked potatoes.
Braised meats and various one-pot dishes, such as carbonada and estofado , are staples of the Chilean table. They provide a warm, home-like atmosphere that can be used to warm oneself before continuing on with the trek.
Milanesa i lomo a lo pobre
In addition, it’s worth mentioning two meat dishes that are often found on the menus of Patagonian restaurants. The first is strikingly similar to a Polish classic: milanesa —a Chilean pork chop. A thin slice of meat (pork or beef) is breaded and fried until golden brown, then served with fries and sauces. Versions also come with melted cheese on top. I had a delicious milanesa at Villa o’Higgins, at the Ventisca brewery. It paired perfectly with the tap beers. It’s a shame it wasn’t their own, but from Tropera .
If we remove the breading, spread braised onions over the beef, and top it with a fried egg, we have one of the most popular Patagonian dinners. This is, of course, lomo a lo pobre . I had the best one in Puerto Rio Tranquilo, on the way back from Chile Chico, halfway through a long drive to Villa Cerro Castillo. Served this way, the steak was a stomach-saver and a delight to the palate. Once again, Cervecería y Restaurant Rio Tranquilo delivered!
Calapurca – soup with hot stones
What to try in Patagonia when it comes to indigenous curiosities? Sitting in a charming restaurant in the center of Punta Arenas—the southernmost city in Chile (and second in the world after Ushuaia in Argentina)—I was intrigued by an item on the menu called calapurca . It’s a traditional soup of the Aymara tribe, who inhabit the northern part of the country. So, it’s not strictly a Patagonian dish, but rather a tribute to one of Chile’s indigenous peoples.
A characteristic feature of calapurca is the use of… hot stones, which are thrown into the broth to maintain its temperature. In the original native recipe, the base of the calapurca broth is llama meat. The Magellanic version uses its local cousin, the guanaco . Calapurca is a soup rich in many types of meat, so chicken and Patagonian lamb were also added. Vegetables and spices rounded out the flavor.
The chef created a truly intense soup, full of flavor, maintained at a high temperature thanks to red-hot stones. As you can see, Chileans love their soups, and each one is designed to satisfy and evoke the warmth of a hearth. Calapurca is a dish rarely found in Patagonia, so if you have the opportunity, you must try it. Where can you find such delicacies in Patagonia? For example, at La Marmita restaurant in Punta Arenas.
Pichanga – a mishmash of everything
A classic in the appetizer section of Patagonian restaurants is pichanga . It’s an eclectic mix of everything the chef can get his hands on. The portion is usually huge—for two to four people—and includes a variety of meats, cold cuts, onion rings, fries, all smothered in melted cheese. I had a portion of this at the Ñirrental restaurant in Cochrane, and I can confidently say it would make the perfect beer plate for a game.
At Tablón del Ancla they also have a vegetarian version, so if someone wants to indulge in the chef’s unbridled imagination throwing whatever they can on the plate, they can also try the meatless option.
Street food and quick snacks – what to eat quickly in Patagonia
There are days when even foodies don’t have time for a full-fledged restaurant meal. Sometimes, they don’t even feel like it. After all, what would exploring the local culinary scene be without checking out the street food? So what’s the best way to eat quickly in Patagonia? You’ll find a variety of quick dishes and regional street food , perfect for a snack on the go or a budget-friendly meal.
Empanada and sopaipilla – Chilean street food classics
Most cuisines around the world have developed some form of pierogi. Japanese gyoza, Georgian khinkali, Ukrainian varenyky, Russian pelmeni, and finally, our beloved Polish Christmas Eve dumplings – the principle is essentially the same: a dough made of flour, water, and/or fat, and optionally eggs, filled with a meat, cheese, vegetable, or mushroom filling, then baked, boiled, or fried. In Latin American culture, the most popular form is empanadas – baked or deep-fried.
In Chile, the most common dish is empanadas de pino , a version stuffed with ground beef, onions, olives, and chopped hard-boiled eggs. It’s the addition of these last two ingredients that makes this dish unique. More sophisticated options also exist, filled with shrimp or even king crab meat. Vegetarian options—just cheese—are very rare. During the aforementioned traditional festival in Cochrane, the vast majority of empanadas available were filled with meat.
You can buy empanadas practically anywhere – in shops, bars, bakeries, stands in squares, and even at some gas stations (although in Patagonia there are stations that only sell gas! – unlike in Poland).
The second most popular street food pastry is sopaipilla . I already mentioned it in the section on cordero al palo . These are small wheat pancakes fried until golden brown. Chileans eat them both sweet and savory. They differ from the Mexican version in that they contain pumpkin. They are traditionally eaten during family celebrations and festivals, and also as a side dish. It’s also usually the cheapest option at any roadside stand.
Hot dogs and arepas
Just as pierogi likely arose independently in every corner of the world, hot dogs gained popularity through a different route – through expansion. It’s believed they originated in Germany or Austria and came to America with immigrants. Then, through globalization and the Americanization of life, they took over the entire culinary world, also taking on various local forms. Suffice it to say that in places like Iceland , the hot dog is said to be the national dish.
Hot dogs are also eaten in Patagonia. I tried a local sausage roll at a very interesting place. The Rebelión brewery, located in the town of Chile Chico, a small town off the main Carretera Austral, right on the Argentine border, evokes radical, revolutionary Latin American ideas. The interior is decorated with activist posters and slogans, portraits of famous revolutionaries hang on the walls, and the menu names reference familiar, commercialized clichés.
That’s how the Creole capitalist hot dog landed on my plate. The bun contained sweet and sour pork seasoned with the signature pebre . It’s a classic Chilean accompaniment to dishes similar to the salsas known in Europe. Typically—like a Chilean salad—it consists of tomato, onion, cilantro, and olive oil, further enhanced with chili peppers, garlic, and chives. It could get quite messy. I’ve had better buns with fillings in my life, but this one paired quite well with beer.
Much more popular here, however, are the so-called completos , hot dogs with sausage, tomatoes, avocado, and mayonnaise. This combination of colors—red, green, and white—leads to another name for this dish: the Italian hot dog , a reference to the colors of the flag. However, I ate one in Santiago, not in Patagonia.
From Venezuela , arepas made their way to Chile. I even posted a recipe for these cornmeal pancakes on my blog once, and their enduring popularity throughout South America must be testament to their taste, which millions of people enjoy. For me, they were the perfect breakfast, bought at the grocery store in Coyhaique, when I stopped for a quick and filling meal before hitting the trail. In Patagonia, arepas are cut in half and stuffed with meat—just like Greek pita bread. Two of these pancakes and you’ll instantly have energy for a few hours of trekking.
Pizza and burgers – familiar flavors with a Patagonian twist
Where to eat pizza in Patagonia? The orthodox among the well-known Facebook groups will probably say: nowhere, because the pies in southern Chile don’t really resemble a polished Napoletana. However, I have no doubt that every foodie should visit Mamma Gaucha in Coyhaique. This is where the Tropera microbrewery was born, which has now grown to industrial proportions and has nine locations across the country. Here, there’s a queue for a table, and the spacious interior bustles with the rhythm of pizzas coming out of the oven. I had a shrimp, red onion, cilantro, and merkén pie. It was really good, although the dough is more of a flatbread.
Let’s be honest, in Poznań, these wouldn’t even make the top ten pancakes, but in Patagonia, they were perfect. What’s more, it’s one of the few places where vegetarians can eat something other than fries or baked potatoes. Pizzerias are a good option for vegetarians, as practically every small town has a place serving this dish. The one in Chaitén is definitely interesting, serving beers from the local nanobrewery, Wechun . Unfortunately, their pizza is subpar.
Patagonia’s burgers are found in larger, more touristy spots, but I particularly liked one. Moreover, it wasn’t because the bun was stuffed with delicious meat, but because of its shape. For some time now, I’ve been seeing online calls for burger joints to have larger burgers wider than tall. They’re easier to pop into your mouth.
The owners of Café Chelenko , a restaurant located on the second floor of a local tourist agency in Puerto Rio Tranquilo, followed suit. The roll was enormous, the size of my face, packed with delicious meat and toppings. And that view! With views of Lago General Carrera from the top, Café Chelenko is a popular breakfast stop for travelers heading to the Marble Caves—the most beautiful place on Earth, which was the highlight of our entire Patagonia trip.
Breakfast and Coffee – Mornings in Patagonia
And if it’s not arepas at the Coyhaique store or a giant burger in Puerto Rio Tranquilo, what’s for breakfast in Patagonia? Honestly, my experience with guesthouse breakfasts included in the room rate wasn’t the best. While I’m not a fan of the classic, boring continental hotel breakfast, this one was even worse. Two slices of ham and cheese, a roll, and tea. Sometimes a tiny portion of unseasoned or over-salted (your choice) scrambled eggs.
So I recommend planning your morning meals yourself, using products available in stores. Here, I’m also referring to what I wrote about the supermarket in Puerto Montt: bread is sold in large quantities, packed in bags—for example, 10 hallula or marraqueta rolls. I asked if I could buy just one or two, and even though I was allowed to, the salespeople looked at me like I was an alien. Everyone buys in bulk!
My best experience with bread, however, was in Puerto Natales. We were leaving early in the morning for a day trip, and there was nowhere to eat breakfast, as everything—including the shops—opened until 9 or 10. I wandered around until I smelled freshly baked bread. Unfortunately, the bakery door was locked. But, taking no chances, I knocked. A tattooed man opened the door and, with a smile, invited me in before closing the latch. It looked as if they used a slightly different white powder than flour. A young baker was pulling several hot wheat loaves filled with various grains from the oven, packed one for me to take with me, and after accepting payment, let me out of this strange place. It was the most delicious bread I’d eaten in Patagonia.
European-style breakfast joints are a rarity around the Carrera Austral. One exception is La Peregrina , a tiny place with lines forming from 9 a.m. Located across from the Chaitén quay, it’s a spot frequented by ferry travelers from Puerto Montt (like us) or those driving around via Hornopirén who need to fill up their tanks. The next opportunity isn’t for another hundred kilometers! La Peregrina serves modern avocado toast, eggs prepared in various ways, as well as sweet breakfasts and pastries. Apparently, they serve the best banoffee in all of Chile! I tried it, and—well, I can’t compare, but it was delicious!
Coffee in Chile… well. A person addicted to drinking seven or eight cups of coffee daily has a really tough time here. Most places serve either instant coffee or from a vending machine. They supposedly have good beans, their own roasters, and they boast about the “specialty” slogan—but I think I had my first good coffee… after returning to Santiago. And if you like cappuccino, forget it. Even if you do find it (rarely), it’s nothing like what you know from Europe. I’m not surprised most Chileans choose yerba mate. Coffee in Patagonia is the biggest disappointment.
Desserts, sweets and fruits – the sweet side of Patagonia
As you know, I’m not a fan of sweets—and given the choice between chocolate cake and a doughnut, I’d choose the steak tartare. However, after a day full of excitement, hours of training, and several solid meals, it’s time for something sweet .
Cakes and pastries – banoffee is not everything in Chaitén
If the supposedly best banoffee in all of Chile from La Peregrina isn’t enough for you, fear not. Patagonia is rich in delicious desserts. However, like everything else here, they’re gigantic. Cake portions are around 250 grams, and to make them taller and bigger, they add a layer of sponge cake to cheesecake, for example! We have a true mishmash of flavors known from Europe and local ones. The menu includes both carrot cake and apfelstrudel , as well as baked goods with local ingredients like calafate . Boxwood barberry reigns supreme in the world of sweets. It’s used to make jams, jellies, liqueurs, and even added to cheesecakes and other cakes.
Since Patagonians love large, tall cakes, honey cakes are a must-have on the menu. As someone from eastern Poland, I’m intimately familiar with the delicious taste of honey cake , so I was pleasantly surprised to be able to try this on the other side of the world. What if you layered the honey cake with calafate jam? Isn’t that a bit much? Certainly not for Patagonian pastry chefs!
A special treat known and loved by the people of southern Chile is leche asada , literally “baked milk.” Its consistency is somewhat reminiscent of cheesecake, it’s caramelized, and it’s served dipped or covered in a thick, sweet caramel sauce. The specific recipe depends on the pastry chef—some are more reminiscent of crème brûlée, while others resemble a solid slice of cake.
Treasures of the forest and garden – wild fruits of Patagonia
These aren’t strictly speaking sweets, but they can provide us with a much-needed dose of sugar and energy during long hikes. What are we talking about? Fruit, of course. Various plants growing wild along the trails often have edible parts. Of course, I take no responsibility for your culinary explorations, so you’ll have to read and decide for yourself whether a given fruit is edible or not. I like to try all things wild. I’m certain I’m eating true products of nature, not fake, factory-farmed ones.
The symbol of Patagonia is the calafate . The fruit of the boxwood barberry is used in practically everything here. I’ve eaten delicious cheesecake with it in Puerto Rio Tranquilo, drank beer, cocktails, and even gin made from it. I’ve spread barberry jam on bread and added syrup made from these wonderful fruits to tea. Patagonian folk wisdom says that once you try calafate , you’ll always return to Patagonia. I’ve eaten so much of it that I think I deserve a plot of land in Puerto Natales.
But man does not live by calafate alone! Patagonian forests and national parks abound with a variety of fruits and mushrooms. Yes, mushrooms – because picking them is popular here too. Morels reign supreme! So rare in Poland, they have the perfect conditions to thrive here. Interestingly, the locals dry these mushrooms. I’ve never seen dried morels for sale in Poland. I brought a bag home and use them in sauces. Also popular are various types of porcini mushrooms, chanterelles, and mushrooms less commonly found or picked by Polish mushroom pickers – such as the funnel mushroom – perfect as a filling for pierogi or as a pizza topping. Pizza with these mushrooms is available seasonally at Villa O’Higgins – the last settlement at the end of Carratera Austral.
Climbing Cerro Cinchao, I waded through veritable oceans of Chilean wintergreen . If I had the resources, I could have picked a ton. Wintergreen isn’t a commonly eaten fruit and isn’t often recommended for picking in guidebooks. However, its pink-red fruit is perfectly edible and can save a hiker lost on the trail. Therefore, in Patagonia, wintergreen is considered a survival food. It doesn’t have much flavor (its fruit—especially the less ripe ones—is quite papery in texture and not very juicy), but it can provide essential micronutrients when we run out of water and food along the way. On the same trail, I also found Julianna barberry —with slightly longer fruit than calafate .
In Futaleufu, I encountered several wild apple trees along the trail. Their slowly reddening fruit was incredibly vinous, juicy, and sweet-and-sour. That’s the kind of apple I like best. It’s been a long time since I’ve eaten such delicious apples as those from those old trees on the way to Windy Rock. Of course, we only pick the fallen ones.
Besides wild berries and apples, Patagonia is dotted with orchards. Magnificent plum trees grace the charming streets of these volcanic towns. They also often grow in the backyards of houses and in pub gardens. These very fruits often served as a midday snack for me. Interestingly, in one town, fruiting quinces grew along the streets.
Pictures painted… with chocolate
This time, it might not be so much about food, but about… using food in art. While exploring the vastness of the Carrera Austral, we stopped at a café called Lucymarc in Villa Mañihuales. It seemed closed, but after knocking, the owner opened the door, and the interior lit up. We wanted coffee (which wasn’t a good choice), but she and her husband insisted we try the hot chocolate . Why?
This place is famous for this particular drink, as well as for using chocolate to paint pictures. Lucy, the owner, can use chocolate to create images like cordero al palo or Patagonian landscape scenes. Her husband, Fer, is a man who could talk for hours about their passion for creating chocolate works, which he, in turn, frames in wood. He also boasted about the many medals and awards they’ve won in local competitions.
So if you happen to be passing through, grab a hot chocolate and say a few nice words about the chocolate paintings!
Vegetarian food in Patagonia – is it possible?
I won’t deny that Patagonia is a kingdom of meat. Vegetarians have it very hard here, and I won’t even mention vegans . For those, self-catering is the only option. What’s more, even theoretically meatless restaurant dishes are a minefield for vegetarians. After all, after ordering fries with cheese without meat, did you expect to get fries with bacon, because they didn’t add any meat (pulled pork)? Or that a complaint would be handled by… skimming the bacon off the top and serving the same portion? I won’t mention the clichéd articles about fish and seafood as a vegetarian option, as they are also common in Europe. It will take many years of education before people learn this.
Patagonia’s harsh climate isn’t ideal for growing fresh vegetables. As a vegetarian, you generally have the choice of either self-catering—though stores in smaller towns don’t offer a wide selection of vegetables—or eating one of three options: French fries (unless they’re meat-based), baked potatoes (also), or pizza. Salads? In most places, they all contain either chicken or seafood. You might find soup occasionally, but you never know if it was made with bones.
So, since you can’t eat anything à la carte without meat, what’s left? Yes – conversation! Fortunately, Chileans are incredibly friendly, and nowhere (except for those fries with bacon…) did they bother us with an off-menu dish. Unfortunately, since fresh vegetables are rare here and meatless dishes are generally not practiced, these options – despite our best efforts – are quite… poor.
Take Futaleufú, where I had hake with tomatoes, lettuce, cucumber, and corn. The lady was happy to serve us a vegetarian version—with three hard-boiled eggs instead of hake and a bit more tomato. That’s pretty much it. Was it tasty and meatless? Yes, it is. However, it’s not a dish you’re used to in European cities.
I can count on one hand the number of places that actually had meatless options on the menu. The aforementioned eggplants with cheese in Puerto Guadal and the cheese croquette salad at Pizzeria Mamma Gaucha come to mind. Besides that, we found one purely vegetarian restaurant in the entire Aysen region – Basilic Bistrot in Coyhaique.
We were very lucky, as a few days before our arrival, a massive fire had just been extinguished, destroying several hectares of forest and an old cemetery in the town. So, no one was in the mood to celebrate. At Basilic Bistrot, we ordered a pretty good risotto with fried tofu and… something that looked like pad Thai, but any Thai would have been shocked to see it on their plate. It wasn’t the tastiest experience.
Of course, it’s better in larger cities. You’ll easily find vegetarian options in the Torres del Paine National Park area – both in Puerto Natales and Punta Arenas – but these are the most touristy towns, so they serve everything. While exploring the vastness of the Carretera Austral, I wouldn’t expect to find meatless restaurants, although you might be pleasantly surprised, especially by the older ladies running the bistro-style establishments. Patagonian grandmothers will always come up with something for you!
Both in Puerto Montt and further south, pastel del choclo is a popular meatless option on menus. Interestingly, it’s the highest-rated Chilean dish according to the popular website Taste Atlas . While the original recipe includes meat, a vegetarian version is easy to make. Pastel del choclo is a casserole made with cornmeal, milk, and butter, to which onions, eggs, olives, and even more corn are added. At Tablón del Ancla , they use eggplant, red peppers, and a mushroom sauce instead of meat. It tastes a bit like polenta, and in my opinion, the dish lacks a distinctive flavor.
What else to climb in Patagonia?
I created a separate section for three dishes that stood out for their creativity or modern approach. The first was fettuccine Alfredo pasta with bacon, shrimp, and spinach. Italians hate Alfredo sauce because Americans serve it with chicken, which has nothing to do with Italian cuisine. I wonder how they would react to the Patagonian version? I had it in Punta Arenas, the heavily touristed capital of the region. I think it would pair better with white wine, but I washed it down with a decent imperial stout from the Hernando de Magallanes brewery.
In the same city—at the aforementioned La Marmita —I also ate beef tenderloin steak in red wine sauce. Traditionally, in Patagonia, beef is served a lo pobre (with braised onions and a fried egg). This version has a typically European (French) flair, demonstrating that refined flavors have reached the Strait of Magellan.
The third item in this section is definitely the weakest. I love ramen with all my black heart. So when I saw black ramen on the menu, I had to order it. First of all, it wasn’t ramen. The name refers to a specific alkaline noodle, but here I got rice dumplings, like pad thai. The ajitsuke tamago was too curdled for my taste, and the broth was average at best. Kudos for the creative approach, but it’s neither ramen nor delicious. I’m sure they have better options at El Brisket in Puerto Natales, as it’s quite a popular place.
Beverages – craft beer, pisco and other Patagonian spirits
When traveling in Patagonia, you can’t miss the local beverages – from excellent craft beer, to famous pisco-based cocktails, to spirits from local distilleries. I could write a separate article about the beer itself; I spoke about it from the stage at the 19th Warsaw Beer Festival, and yet there are so many other interesting things to try in southern Chile.
I also know that for many of you, Chile is primarily associated with wine—and yes, it’s also available in Patagonia, but the wine regions are located further north. They actually end in Osorno, near Puerto Montt. Therefore, in the south, it’s not a major destination for alcohol tourism. So what should you drink in Patagonia to quench your thirst and complete your culinary experience? More on that below.
Whiskey? Grappa? No! Pisco!
The most iconic spirit in Chile, as in Peru, is pisco . These two countries, however, engage in fierce competition for ownership of this drink. The individual versions, however, differ. Fundamentally, pisco is a grape distillate, and Peru is considered its homeland. Despite this, it is consumed most frequently in Chile, and it is arguably Chile that popularized this spirit. Pisco is produced using wine from white grapes, most often Muscat varieties. After distillation, it is aged in oak barrels. It is then diluted to the desired alcohol content (typically 30-35% alcohol, but stronger versions for connoisseurs exist).
Chileans rarely, if ever, drink pisco straight. It’s usually found in cocktails like the famous pisco sour (with lemon, sugar, ice, and egg white). There are also versions with Coca-Cola, Fanta, or Sprite. In Patagonia, the most popular local variation is the beautifully purple calafate sour , a pisco sour with boxwood syrup. This version doesn’t use egg white. I drank calafate sours everywhere I could. As with the berries themselves, legend has it that once you’ve had them, you’ll surely return to Patagonia. Creative bartenders sometimes also propose versions with other fruits or vegetables, such as rhubarb, but these are less common.
Patagonian restaurants also don’t have the tradition of drinking 40ml shots. Instead, they have what’s called cortos . – that’s hundreds! Ordering a 40% Corto Pisco Mistral on ice, I was met with a mixture of admiration and surprise, as the staff weren’t exactly accustomed to this type of tasting. I must admit, I drank several different Piscos during my stay in Patagonia and I’m a fan of this distillate. If I had it on hand instead of a glass of whiskey, I wouldn’t complain. Until, of course, I missed the peat.
It’s also worth noting that, in addition to the pisco sour and calafate sour , I also drank a unique version of this popular cocktail in Puyuhuapi called a tepa sour . It’s made with the leaves of the endemic Laureliopsis philippiana tree, which are also used to produce local gin. The tepa’s flavor is similar to bay leaves.
Patagonian distillates and other drinks
Grapes aren’t typically grown in Patagonia—the climate isn’t ideal. Therefore, pisco also comes from the northern regions. This doesn’t mean, however, that Patagonians haven’t mastered the art of extracting alcohol from what grows there. Because the region is full of forests rich in herbs and fruits, Patagonian gins are very popular. They are made using local ingredients found in the pristine forests, as well as plants that have become symbols not only of the region but of the entire continent.
I’ve already mentioned tepa , but that’s not all. It’s often combined with luma ( Luma apiculata ), a plant from the myrtle family, creating a blend called tepaluma . Yerba mate , which is more popular here than coffee, is also added to herbal elixirs. We wouldn’t be in Patagonia if calafate berries hadn’t also found their way into the alembic.
The world’s southernmost distillery, Last Hope Craft Distillery in Puerto Natales, has mastered the art of crafting spirits from indigenous raw materials. Founded by British immigrants, it aims to bring the knowledge and experience of European master distillers to the local Patagonian soil, while paying tribute to the region’s typical ingredients.
This is how the delicious Calafate Gin was created, which I drank twice and was captivated not only by its beautiful purple hue but also by its unique aroma and flavor. Besides boxwood barberry berries, the ingredients include cardamom, cinnamon, coriander, juniper, lemon verbena, licorice root, maqui berries ( Aristotelia chilensis ), orange peel, orris root, pepper, star anise, Winter’s mash (its bark is called Chilean cinnamon), and yerba mate. A Dry Gin version is also available, without the calafate. Both are excellent.
Besides distillates, the production of liqueurs and cordials is flourishing in small towns. During the festival in Cochrane, which I mentioned a few times, I tried homemade liqueurs made with calafate . They make them very sweet, so I recommend mixing them with tea—unless you have a sweet tooth.
A typical tourist attraction is whisky with glacier ice . During a boat cruise through the Torres del Paine fjords, we were served regular Scotch whisky (Grant, I think) with a massive, crystal-clear ice cube—supposedly from one of the glaciers. Just a gimmick for guests. Free whisky with a story? I always appreciate it, even though it’s tailored to tourists.
Craft Beer in Patagonia
I could write at length about craft beer in Patagonia, but I’ll try to include only the most interesting thoughts. A dynamic craft brewery scene is developing in southern Chile, from the Los Lagos region to Aysén and Magallanes (Chilean Patagonia). They utilize the clean, glacial water and brewing traditions brought by German settlers, among others, to create unique beers that are appreciated locally and internationally. I was surprised by the number of medals won in renowned brewing competitions by the producers of the beers I sampled during our trip.
From Santiago Airport to Los Lagos
My first contact with Patagonian craftsmanship was at the airport in Santiago, shortly after landing in Chile. While waiting in the terminal for a domestic flight to Puerto Montt, I noticed beers from Cervecería Austral available at the bar – the oldest and most popular brewery in all of Patagonia. It’s the southernmost brewery in Chile (and almost the world, aside from those in Ushuaia). Founded in the 19th century by Germans, in Punta Arenas you can admire historic equipment and read about the history of brewing in the region.
They started as a small operation in the far south, and are now available nationwide and for export. After years of success, the brewery was purchased from the Fischer family by the CCU group, but it still retains its regional identity and brand. Austral produces half a million liters of beer annually and brews a wide variety of styles, from lagers and stouts to IPAs. However, one of the brewery’s bestsellers is undoubtedly the fruity Calafate Ale – good, but not too sweet !
After landing in Puerto Montt, I didn’t have much opportunity for alcoholic beverages, as I had to drive my car onto the ferry. So, one beer with dinner was the most I could manage before the overnight cruise to Chaitén. I opted for the delightfully sounding Obama’s Redemption , a stout from the Chester Brewery. This brewery was founded by an American near Puerto Varas and produces a number of English beer styles. Its symbolism also draws on familiar clichés like Che Guevara (CHEster!) and political themes (the aforementioned Obama). As you can see, it sells well in South America.
The next stop on my trip was Chaitén, where, in addition to delicious banoffee at La Peregrina, I bought a stout from the Cuello Negro brewery in Valdivia at the shop next door. This region is renowned for some of the cleanest forests and waters in the world. Interestingly, this brewery was the first in Chile to introduce the petainers, well-known in Poland, into the food service scene, which were beginning to replace steel kegs. The stout I drank was showered with awards: a gold medal for best Chilean beer in 2011, gold at the Brussels Beer Challenge 2017, and silver in the Export Stout category at the World Beer Cup 2024. Unfortunately, this bottle didn’t live up to the judges’ enthusiasm. Maybe I was in the wrong place.
In Chaitén, however, the more important brewery is their local brewery, Wechun . It’s literally a small house with a nano-brewery and plastic fermenters, accompanied by a mini taproom. It looks like a larger home brewery, not a factory. True craft! Wechun was founded by a doctor sent to Patagonia for a residency. Out of boredom, he started brewing beer and was soon selling it in Chaitén and Futaleufú. After returning to Santiago, he left the business to his local partners, and to this day, you can drink the beers from this tiny brewery both on-site and in restaurants in Chaitén. I tried the stout and the amber ale – both tasted very home-brewed, with a distinct yeasty aftertaste. I drank them with pleasure, smiling under my mustache at the thought of how wonderful things once were. I wish the guys from Wechun always remain as craft as they are today. An additional bonus is that all their beers are named in the Mapudungun language, paying tribute to the Mapuche – the indigenous inhabitants of the region!
Arriving in Futaleufú, I had Escarcha Brewery on my list, but it turned out they no longer brew beer there. They do have a few beers from Tropera on tap, though. Cerveceria Tropera is one of the most popular craft beer producers in Patagonia. Their home is the Mamma Gaucha pizzeria in Coyhaique, which I described in the pizza section. What started as a brewery restaurant has grown to incredible proportions!
Aysén and more
These days, Tropera is everywhere. It has nine company pubs, a production facility in Puerto Varas, and has transformed from a tiny brewery into a true industrial enterprise. They brew a variety of beers—mostly light and drinkable. This, by the way, is a hallmark of all Patagonian breweries. Even imperial stouts here have a maximum alcohol content of 7.5%, and most beers fall in the 3-6% range. The most popular offering from Tropera is Guadalina —a medal-winning blond ale from the World Beer Awards. I also tried a delicious, clear, hoppy Session IPA and a richly chocolatey stout called Perros del Mackay. The name refers to the dogs that run around Puerto Varas’ main square. Patagonian breweries often incorporate local references in their own names ( tropero means nomadic shepherd) or in their beers.
Coyhaique is one of the larger towns along the route, so there are quite a few breweries. Besides Tropera, there’s also Pilchero (another cultural reference—that’s the name of the pack horse that accompanies gauchos and troopers on their herds). This is a tiny brewery producing 200 hectolitres per year. They offer a great American stout called Niebla. More popular is the Colorado red ale, but my sample had a rather bothersome diacetyl content.
There’s also Hudson , named after the volcano that caused significant damage in the area in 1991. They produce a fantastic old-school IPA , as well as a very intense, fruity Maqui —with the addition of the Aristotelia chilensis , mentioned earlier in the context of gin. Interestingly, these fruits can be purchased dried in Poland—as a superfood .
Returning to the larger players, Coyhaique is also home to the d’Olbek brewery, which draws inspiration from Belgian traditions. Their taproom is located on the other side of town, so I didn’t have a chance to visit, but I did buy a few bottled beers. They were all bland and forgettable, and the Belgian lager is a very odd combination of flavors.
In Villa Cerro Castillo , where the worst part of the Carrera Austral begins southward, locals founded a tiny brewery called Caiquen . I drank their porter , which had a delicate buttery texture and plenty of notes of cereal coffee, but not enough chocolate or coffee. This is a relatively rare beer producer in pubs and restaurants, so it’s worth trying their products, if only because it’s an initiative typically organized by locals for their own sake. Their double IPA has excellent reviews on Untappd, but I haven’t had the chance to try it.
Continuing south, finally reaching the Marble Caves, it’s impossible not to mention the breweries of Puerto Rio Tranquilo . The most popular is Arisca , with its taproom and restaurant on the waterfront. The two most popular beers from this brewery are Baya and Alazana . The former is a rather estery lager, but paradoxically, its floral character works to its advantage, even though it’s not stylish. The latter is a red ale, which locals tell me is one of the Patagonians’ favorite beers. I drank it three times and can confirm it was one of the best amber/red ales I’ve tried. Intense, floral, and very drinkable.
Unfortunately, I can’t say such good things about the Catedral brewery. Despite their marketing potential and beautiful labels featuring the most famous of the Marble Caves, they unfortunately don’t live up to their reputation when it comes to what’s inside the bottle. From what I understand, these beers haven’t even been made in Puerto Rio Tranquilo for several years, but rather in Lago Verde. The Catedral brewery’s porter is one of the worst beers I’ve had in Patagonia. Others weren’t quite as bad, but I can’t say anything good about any of them.
From Puerto Rio Tranquilo, let’s move a bit east, to the Argentine border. Here—in Chile Chico —I tried the products of two breweries. I’ve already written about Rebelión in the context of food, but the beer deserves a moment. As befits true revolutionaries, the menu bears no resemblance to what’s currently on offer, and Untappd doesn’t list half the beers, so I had to add them myself. The IPA had a slight acetaldehyde note, La Guerra de Chile Chico is a forgettable, bland red ale, and Tu Problema Es Mi Problema is a similar stout. They also have a Scotch ale—interestingly, it’s quite a popular style in Patagonia—and a few others. I’d consider Rebelión’s products as beers to accompany food. However, I recently caught wind of the news that they won a silver medal at the 2025 Copa Cervecera Independiente for the aforementioned red ale.
The La Costanera restaurant in the same town serves Lelak beer, about which little is known. Apparently, they brew it somewhere nearby in Chile Chico, but no one knows where. It’s a proper, 5% ABV lager. That’s about it. Apparently, the Glof brewery also operates in this town—and they have their own hops! I drank their beer… in Chaitén, after finding it in a store. They make a decent pale ale.
I returned to Tropera beers in Villa o’Higgins – the last settlement along the Austral Carretera. The Ventisca brewery is located there, but they didn’t have any of their own beers in their taproom because they had all bottled them at a local festival. So, I had Don Manu – a pleasantly fragrant IPA with a hint of vitamin C; Hazymeni – an average hazy IPA, but quite good for a Milanese; and two maltier British beers: a brown ale called Crazy Juan and a strong ale called Strong 47. All were good.
Returning north, I had the opportunity to sample beers from the Finisterra brewery in Puerto Cisnes: a truly pleasantly bitter Pale Ale and a delicious, creamy Porter with a distinct cocoa character. I managed to snag them at the Mi Sur restaurant in Puyuhuapi. And since Puyuhuapi is German, it means Germans! After all, they founded this town.
Hopperdietzel may not be a Chilean name, but that’s exactly what the local brewery was founded under. Schwarz Bach Ale is a truly excellent schwarzbier, confirming the continuity of brewing traditions with the Old Continent. Interestingly, a German carpet factory once occupied this location, hence the name of the popular Hopperdietzel beer – Roter Teppich Ale . The most interesting place in the entire town is undoubtedly Los Porteños – a brewery located in… a tin shed next to a public restroom, right by the fjord.
Interestingly, this is where you pay for using the latrine. During my stay in Puyuhuapi, it was always closed, so I didn’t get a chance to peek inside, but one café served their beers. Rubia is something between an amber ale and a blonde ale, with notes of the homebrew beer brought to the first meetings of Greater Poland brewers a dozen or so years ago. Tears of nostalgia. True craft beer – like Wechun .
When speaking of German traditions, it’s impossible not to mention the Valdivian brewery Kunstmann . Founded in 1991 as a home brewery and registered commercially six years later, it has grown to several hundred thousand hectoliters annually! Currently, Kunstmann is a joint-stock company, 49% owned by the CCU group. The most popular beer from this brewery is Torobayo – an English amber ale, the most popular craft beer by volume in Chile (if we still consider them craft). They also released a tasty bock, Last Hope , which also has a strong porter flavor.
I can also include the breweries Loco Patron (Puerto Varas) and 860 Km2 (Lago Llanquihue) in Patagonia. I sampled their products at the Puerto Montt airport. Loco Patron ‘s pale ale was decent, as was a Belgian strong golden ale called Muerte Subita , which won medals at the 2021 and 2022 World Beer Awards. The Lakers , boasting compliance with the Reinheitsgebot, released a quite good cream ale with a pleasant maltiness.
Magallanes
From the airport in Puerto Montt, we headed for the final leg of our journey: Puerto Natales and Punta Arenas – two of the most important destinations in the Magallanes region. It’s from here that all travelers depart to explore Torres del Paine National Park.
Puerto Natales
The most popular craft beer spot in Puerto Natales is Baguales . It’s the first Patagonian brewpub, founded in 2010 when two Chileans and an American joined forces over their passion for beer. Their goal was to create a craft brewery at the edge of the world. The name refers to a wild, untamed horse. This place is a must-see for travelers heading to Torres del Paine.
The beers are rarely bottled, and the brewery focuses on fresh brews served on tap in-house. Baguales brews beers inspired by American and British styles. Their flagship is the Pale Ale – very drinkable, even in two sips. I also tried the version with yerba mate ( Mate 101 ), but aside from a slight herbal bitterness, I didn’t detect any of the herb’s presence. The Brown Ale had a rather interesting, strongly toasted, almost burnt flavor, and the Porter Chocolate was undoubtedly the crown jewel of the day: a smooth, chocolate-coffee-flavored, pure-bred representative of the style. Baguales also serves delicious wings with hot sauce! Perfect with these beers.
In Baguales, I tried another beer from another local brewery, Maltok . It was a bock with a very strong toffee profile.
While strolling through the streets of Puerto Natales, I stumbled upon a place serving beers from a brewery I hadn’t heard of before, Natales . It’s called El Bote . While their Natales Ale is a slightly buttery APA, the Brown offered plenty of nuttiness and got my saliva flowing. The Dark Ale was dominated by chocolate and a slight earthiness.
Punta Arenas
In Punta Arenas, the capital of the Magallanes region, you can eat and drink practically anything. But let’s focus on the beer. As I mentioned, the oldest and largest brewery is Cervecería Austral . I’ve tried their beers in many parts of the country due to their best availability. The Calafate Ale drunk at the Cochrane festival had its own unique atmosphere, as did the Mylodon in Puerto Natales, which references a mythical animal whose remains were found in a nearby cave. This is a hoppy lager with a rather strongly perfumed aroma. Yagan , referring to an extinct native tribe, is a dark ale that tasted somewhat like a Munich dark ale. Unfortunately, the Toro stout had a disturbing hint of sulfur.
Besides the giant, there are several smaller breweries in the city. The first is Alchemist , which combines brewing with distilling. The names are humorous and refer to the region. Pingüino Loco ( Crazy Penguin ) is a modern Hazy IPA, which I drank at La Marmita . I have to admit, for a modern beer, it tasted quite good. Another microbrewery is Coiron . They also produce ciders. I was tempted by the one with rhubarb (or maybe paryplin? – they often don’t distinguish between the two here). It was a bit too sweet, but definitely tasty and full of character. They’re less successful with IPAs. Latitud 53 tasted like an old, oxidized, homemade version of an American classic. And finally, there’s Scotch, aka Lenga Scottish . This isn’t the only brewery brewing British classics in Patagonia, and let’s just say they’re doing OK. Something about it didn’t quite sit right with me, but I ended up drinking it without a grimace.
We finally reach the final destination – the brewery called Ferdinand Magellan. Specifically, in Spanish, Hernando de Magallanes . Local Birgici, who resent the fact that Austral has become a nationwide industrial enterprise, consider this brewery their regional jewel. The real one – the craft one. Seeing imperial stout on the menu, I couldn’t resist. Negra is a beer I tried at La Casa de Doña Maria . It’s heavy on molasses, chocolate, and that porter-like flavor. Not quite RIS-like at 7%. Nevertheless, it was one of the best beers I had in Patagonia.
So, while you’re in Punta Arenas, be sure to check out Hernando de Magallanes beers. They also have a taproom in town, so there’s probably a wider selection there, but we didn’t have time to go there. We had to sail to see the penguins on Isla Magdalena.
Other beers
In addition to local craft beers, I also drank other offerings: both from major corporations and Santiago breweries – especially after returning to the capital. Of these, I’d wholeheartedly recommend SPoH brewery above all. Both the double IPA ( Animal) and the RISpect (imperial stout) are old-school products. Don’t let the colorful cans fool you! They’re characterful, bitter, and full of bite. Just like beers used to be!
In addition, during a day trip to Argentina to the Perito Moreno Glacier, I tried Cerveza Patagonia Kilometro 24.7 . It’s a session IPA with elderflower, produced by AB InBev, and quite tasty. Whatever the circumstances, the surroundings—where I drank it—have to be upgraded. I’ll never again drink a beer while standing on an observation deck, gazing at the most beautiful glacier in the world. A glacier that, until recently, was still growing, has, unfortunately, begun to retreat in recent years.
In summary
And that’s how February passed for me—tasting, tasting, trying new things, and admiring the landscapes. All these beers and dishes pale in comparison to the beauty of Patagonian nature I experienced. No dish could compare to observing Ventisquero Colgante, hiking the trail to Volcán Chaitén in hail and rain, or cruising the fjords and lakes of Torres del Paine. Not to mention the trip to Perito Moreno. I observed animals and plants I’d never seen before. I’ve etched memories in my heart that will last for years. Was this the trip of a lifetime? I wouldn’t want it to be. That would mean there’s nothing better ahead. And yet, I’m just getting started…
Not just a foodie, but also a self-taught chef who cooks and tests recipes from around the globe. A traveler and connoisseur of great dishes across countries and cultures. Certified beer sensory specialist. Owner of a contract craft brewery renowned for wild, experimental brews. A former homebrewer with deep know-how in brewing techniques and beer styles. Loves pushing flavor boundaries—both on the plate and in the glass. His motto: “Go big or go home.”